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New arrivals in the world of DC-DC converters and more

$25.65
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For a while, I hadn't been keeping up with the latest converter offerings on AliExpress. Then the app showed me something new, so I got interested and started looking into it—and it turned out there are some interesting new products. And, as a bonus, a few other little things that might come in handy too.

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When searching for products, I tried to find the lowest prices, but I can't guarantee they're the absolute lowest, especially since prices fluctuate a lot.

I'll start with a fairly well-known converter model. It's been on sale for quite a while, and I actually bought one myself. But, as often happens, I haven't found the time to put it to use yet. I think I'll get around to it soon, though, and put together a short review while I'm at it. product link
With coins, this model comes to about $16. It's available in two versions: the power board alone, or the board with the control module.


I wouldn't say it stands out in any particular way, and it clearly loses out to Riden units, but price, specs, and form factor count for a lot here.


For example, I bought it to use in a hybrid battery tester. Yes, I had a model with an RK6006 module, but that only goes up to 6 A. Still, as I understand it, that's enough for the tests Mikhail bought it for (if I'm remembering correctly).
But I know that's usually not enough, so a new model will be made for sale. Unlike the previous one, it will have:
1. A charging voltage of up to 55 V, compared with 32 V on the previous model
2. A current of 20 A, compared with 6 A
3. A 300 W primary power supply, compared with 180 W, so a charging current of 20 A will be available at voltages up to about 14.5–15 V.
4. I also want to make it a true hybrid, with three operating modes:
A battery tester, where the DC-DC converter works as a charger, with 300 W charging power and up to 600 W discharge power at up to 40 A
Separate operation, where the bench power supply and load work independently, so you can use it as an adjustable power supply
The third mode is essentially an extension of the first: the power supply, for example, powers an external DC-DC converter, while the load puts it under load. This makes it easier to measure the efficiency of that external DC-DC converter or some other device.



Right from the start, I noticed that you could buy the power board separately, but only now have I become interested in why that option is available. The thing is, the power board can be used on its own, either for fixed output voltages or with analog adjustment.


In other words, they took a power board that you can control with ordinary knobs, added external control with a little display, and came up with this


But just the other day, Ali showed me a more interesting option. It's only a little more expensive, but has a nicer display. What's more, I plan to buy one during the next sale—maybe I'll even find a coupon. product link
There are four options here: the power board, the board with the control module, and the board plus control module with either WiFi or IR control.


Two things caught my eye first: the looks and the current of up to 25 A. Then I saw that the voltage can go up to 70 V instead of the usual 60 V, which broadens its range of applications. I'd also point out that it has a more convenient keypad, roughly like the one on Riden units. After a membrane keypad, it's a real treat.


The principle is the same: the power board can work on its own, but you can also use it with the control module, which I find convenient. For some reason, though, the photo of the board lists the current as 22 A, while the version with the control module is listed at 25 A. Everywhere else, it's 25 A.


Technical specifications. There's a ton of information on the product page, so if you're interested, you can check it out there.


According to the description, there are many more control options. Besides working with the external module, the board can also work with:
1. A UART-RS485 adapter; I think you can also connect a USB adapter
2. A WiFi module
3. IR control
4. Radio control.

The first option uses the UART bus, while the others use the built-in 485 interface, so The first option is mainly for galvanic isolation.



And yes, the board has an RS-485 interface, allowing multiple boards to be connected to a single bus and controlled with shared software. As I understand it, it uses SiniLink software. I once reviewed a converter that works with it.


But I was surprised to find that it can also work as an MPPT controller. What's more, you can set an output current limit, much like you can set a fixed output voltage, as with the previous one.
I also noticed it has reverse-current protection, which means this converter should be better suited for use as a battery charger—something that works in favor of a battery tester.


The third converter looks very much like the previous ones, and at first I didn't really get it. Sure, it has a different little display, costs more, and is rated for 22 A—which is less than the previous one. A bit odd. But you know I wouldn't have brought it up for no reason.
Product link

You can also buy just the power board here, but there are two control module options.


Even the power board looks very much like the previous ones, but when I took a closer look at its main feature, I realized I absolutely had to tell you about it. Yes, its maximum current is 22 A, but its output voltage goes up to 125 V!!!
I've been asked so many times about DC-DC converters with an output voltage of at least 100 V. Now I know what to recommend.


It turns out there are no fewer than three display options for it:
1. A bare color display, which I find quite interesting.
2. A monochrome display in a case, but actually more informative than the one on the first model I showed.
3. A color display in a case, somewhere between the first and second options.


And here are the specs: input voltage up to 140 V, output voltage up to 125 V, and power up to 1500 W (so at 125 V, the current can be around 12 A).
There's some kind of error in the description: it says the output voltage goes up to 3600 V :)
It has a ton of protection features for every eventuality. Honestly, I want one already; the only question is where to get the money for all this :(



You can connect the module to a smartphone or a PC, though that's pretty standard these days. You just need to check whether everything you need is included. Then again, what does it take for a radio amateur to connect even a vacuum cleaner to a PC? :)



The power board has spots for trimmer resistors and indicators for the operating modes, but to me, the real appeal is buying the whole kit at once.


Someone pointed out in the comments that there's an identical module with an output voltage up to 65 V, and it's cheaper. It might be useful to someone: product link.


And here are all three modules together.


You can see from the boards that they share a very similar design concept, with the first two being even more alike. The third one does stand out.


This reminded me of the converter from one of my reviews, which was many years ago—practically a past life.
It's the same concept; you can also adjust the voltage here with ordinary knobs. By the way, I should finally build a power supply based on it. It's a shame to leave it sitting unused.



And a few more sale items.
I'll start with a rather interesting little board that normally fits into the terminal block of Atorch electronic loads and lets you control fast-charging protocols without external triggers. I didn't see it on Hidance's page; it seems to be available only from Atorch: link



Subjectively, the board looks interesting; objectively, it needs testing.


And since we're talking about Atorch electronic loads, I also came across a display in case you need to replace the original. I've had the original display start glitching after sitting unused for a long time, and then die. But on Atorch's page, one like this costs over 10 bucks; this one is around 4. Where I bought them in case I needed replacements, the price is high now, but this may be useful to someone.
The controllers and appearance are absolutely identical to the original in both of these options; for Atorch, use the one shown in the screenshot with the short ribbon cable.



I just happened to come across this very compact, good-looking meter. If you’re short on space in your electrical panel, it’s a great option and, in my opinion, inexpensive. product link



Battery heating pads, used together with a BMS whose description specifies support for heater control (Heater).



Smart BMS units that are relatively inexpensive and feature-rich. Some versions have a 2 A active balancer. One key difference is that versions are available for 4–8S, whereas most others start at 7S.
They’re available for 100, 200, and 300 A; the corresponding suffixes at the end of the model number are 10P, 20P, and 30P.


A BMS from Litokala. If you add it to your cart (this applies to many products), you may later get a decent discount in the coins section. I bought one myself; I think it cost me $6.8, which is of course more than the well-known “white” board, but I hope the quality will be better. product link




That’s all for now. I hope you found this useful, and as always, I’d be glad to hear your comments and see links to interesting products or good deals.
$25.65
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This page was found when searching for:
bbi-0329, zk-10022c инструкция блок питания, https://www.kirich.blog/magaziny/aliexpress/interesnye-tovary-na-aliexpress/1252-novinki-na-rynke-dcdc-preobrazovateley-i-ne-tolko, zk6522c обзор, zk-6522c, zk-6522c c обзор, преобразователь zk 10022 подключение, я использую zk-6522, обзор zk-6522
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Comments19

Comments are published in their original language.

  1. 21 November 2024 16:44#1
    Да, модульков хороших действительно появляется много и хороших, добавлю еще один их родственник. Какое то время пользовался X Y-6020L, но из-за дубовых кнопок и, как следствие, гаснущих периодически сегментов на индикаторе заказал, и вчера получил,   ZK-6522C. Все озвученные вами видел, но мне больше понравился именно этот. По сравнению с 7025 ток чуть меньше, но экран чуть более интересен во всех режимах, а по сравнению со 10022 больше разрядов для вольт.
    Новые силиконовые кнопки это конечно нечто :-)
    брал тут https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007007221586.html
    +1
    1. 22 November 2024 12:48#2
      Ага, спасибо, добавил в подборку, может кому-то тоже будет полезен.
      Вообще да, как-то давно я не интересовался что есть сейчас в продаже и был приятно удивлен тем что ассортимент заметно расширился, причем не типовыми моделями до 50-60 вольт и с током 6-12А, а заметно шире.
      0
    2. 17 December 2024 18:19#3
      Привет Андрей, вопрос возник у меня по поводу "третьего разряда"-:как он с "мультиметром" соотносится по уставкам 1-4мВ?!

      0
      1. 17 December 2024 18:42#4
        Привет, если я правильно понял, то при установке 3,65в, к примеру, мультиметр показывает 3,648-3,652, для 14,60 примерно тоже +-1-3 знака в 3 разряде, очень редко увидел 4 знака разницу
        +1
  2. 21 November 2024 21:11#5
    на продажу будет изготовлена новая модель

    Буду с нетерпением ждать новую модель гибридного тестера. Предыдущей моделью доволен, спасибо)
    +1
    1. 22 November 2024 12:49#6
      Огромное спасибо вам за комментарий. Да, планирую в ближайшее время заняться сборкой, вот только посылку с радиаторами Мист что-то никак не привезет :(
      +1
  3. 23 November 2024 23:14#7
    Посоветуйте, пожалуйста, блок питания для второго варианта и корпус под него.
    0
    1. 24 November 2024 11:47#8
      Насчет корпуса не подскажу, искать подходящий по размерам.
      По БП вот несколько вариантов, раз, два и три. Но тут зависит от того, какое напряжение и мощность вам надо.
      0
  4. 25 November 2024 00:45#9
    У меня есть 6020L , когда заряжаю аккумуляторы и батареи , то устройство с режима cc в cv переходит на 0,1В позже, чем установлено. Это если его не трогать. Стоит только пошевелить крутилку, даже не меняя уставку, на один клик , как оно "просыпается" и сбрасывает напряжение.
    Ещё минус - не калибруются программно напряжение и ток (есть разница с мультиметрами)
    И шаг 0,01В только на экране , а в реальности 0.05
    +1
  5. 4 December 2024 20:13#10
    У меня есть 6020L, ZK-6522C, RK6006.
    6020L как-то странно себя ведет с CC - напряжение подпрыгивает, но в СС не входит - выложу видео и позже потестирую уже с осциллографом и DL24MP нагрузкой. Могу сделать какие-то определенные тесты если нужно.
    +1
    1. 6 December 2024 19:09#11
      Если можно продемонстрируйте странность с режимом СС.
      0
    2. 17 December 2024 18:27#12
      Выше тоже самое написал - проц подвисает или его АЦП, а может и программный баг,
      И да, и вообще - для ш...Лифера нормально, как зарядное - там 100мВ превышение в среднем диапазоне напряжений, ну 0.2 В , наверное от 48В и выше тоже проявляется.
      это просто дс-дс с экранчиком , а не источник питания, к.м.к
      -1
  6. 6 December 2024 17:25#13
    Имею XY-6020L. Не устраивает точность показаний вольтметра (показывает на 0.2В больше) и КПД не 90-95% как обещали в инструкции, а 60-70%. Больше не буду их покупать. DPS/RD only.
    0
    1. 6 December 2024 19:08#14
      Очень любопытная информация, а как получили такие значения КПД? Какие режимы и как оценивали?
      0
    2. 21 December 2024 03:08#15
      Сейчас вот проверял КПД, весьма хороший, непонятно все таки, как вы получили 60-70% и в каких именно режимах.
      +1
      1. 21 December 2024 20:32#16
        Так он резистором нагрузил преобразователь и с его экрана снимал показания как я понял. А врут показометры по разному, у меня при 4.2 вольта на выходе всего 3.9-4 может быть, особенно при тОках больше 2-3А
        0
        1. 21 December 2024 21:07#17
          Может запилю обзор, но пока кратенько по КПД.
          При выходном 48 вольт 20 ампер у меня получилось на входе 997 ватт, на выходе 958 ватт.
          При выходном 12 вольт 20 ампер было  269 по входу и 236 по выходу.

          В первом случае 96%, во втором 87.7%

          По моему вполне нормально, причем самыми горячими компонентами были шунты, остальное ну так себе, грелось и не более  того.
          И да, это без учета падения на проводах, потому реальный КПД еще выше.

          +2
  7. 7 December 2024 09:38#18
    преобразователь подключал к выходу лбп.. а к выходу преобразователя подключал мощный резистор
    0
    1. 17 December 2024 18:30#19
      Привет, вопрос : чем измерялась мощность на резисторе?(!)
      0

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