As it happens, there are currently two leaders in the video surveillance industry. I’ve written quite a bit about one of them, the well-known company Hikvision. The other company has somehow remained in the shadows. Although Dahua may not be the most euphonious name for Russian speakers, it would still be wrong to overlook it. I don’t know why, but there are noticeably fewer reviews of this company’s products, and that’s partly why I decided to fill the gap. Besides, I’ve been asked about Dahua products several times already.
So today I’m reviewing and briefly comparing products from two major companies.
I won’t get into sales figures, revenue, and so on, since that information doesn’t give the full picture, even though it puts Hikvision in first place and Dahua in second worldwide. In any case, both companies make a lot of fairly high-quality products, and they’ve pushed aside such a well-known company as Axis, which was also one of the leaders for a long time. Another well-known company is Pelco, but there haven’t been any statistics on them lately, even though they also make professional systems.
I’ll be comparing the camera under review not with any specific Hikvision model, but in general. Partly because I don’t have a Hikvision camera with exactly the same features, and partly because I haven’t used Dahua cameras before, whereas I work with Hikvision cameras often.
The reason I don’t work with Dahua is simple: people who install various kinds of equipment usually get “locked into” one or two brands and stick with them. There are several reasons for this:
1. There are so many models that it’s hard to know them all
2. The camera software is similar, but not identical
3. The camera server software and recorders aren’t compatible, so you can’t just add a Dahua camera to a Hikvision system, or vice versa.
As for the last point, there’s ONVIF, of course, but its functionality is severely limited, so it should only be used as a last resort. For example, when working with the full surveillance software, you can access all the camera settings, while ONVIF only gives you access to the basic features.
You could sum up this review as “A Dahua camera through the eyes of a Hikvision camera user” :)
But I’m getting carried away. Let’s move on to the review. First, the technical specifications:
Main features:4-megapixel video camera with a 1/3” CMOS image sensor
Supports three video streams: H.265/H.264 & MJPEG
Records images at a high resolution of 4M (2592x1520)
Analytics: Corridor mode / Line crossing / Intrusion into a monitored area / Scene change detection / Face detection
Supports DWDR, Day/Night, 3DNR, AWB, AGC, BLC
Supports remote viewing via Web interface, CMS (DSS/PSS) & DMSS
Motorized lens with a focal length of 2.8 mm–12 mm
Infrared illumination range up to 50 m
Supports SD cards up to 128 GB
IP66 dust and water protection rating
Supports PoE power
Specifications:Image sensor: 4 megapixels
Infrared illumination: 50 m
Backlight compensation: BLC / HLC / DWDR
Lens type: Motorized
Focal length: 2.8 mm–12 mm (motorized)
Resolution: 4M (1–20 fps) / 3M (1–25/30 fps)
Bitrate: H.265: 32K–8 Mbps
Microphone: No
Ethernet protocols: IPv4/IPv6, HTTP, HTTPS, SSL, TCP/IP, UDP, UPnP, ICMP, IGMP, SNMP, RTSP, RTP, SMTP, NTP, DHCP, DNS, PPPOE, DDNS, FTP, IP Filter, QoS, Bonjour
Wi-Fi: No
Built-in memory card slot: micro SD
ONVIF: ONVIF Profile S
Analytics: Corridor mode / Line crossing / Intrusion into a monitored area / Scene change detection / Face detection
Power supply: DC12V, PoE (802.3af)
Housing material: Metal
Dimensions (W x H x D): 122 mm x 89 mm
Operating temperature: -40°C to +60°C
Mounting type: Ceiling, wall
Supported mobile devices: iPhone, iPad, Android, Windows Phone
Ethernet interface: RJ-45 (10/100Base-T)
Oddly enough, when I tried to find detailed information about this camera, I discovered that Dahua’s official website had no information about it at all. There are very similar cameras, but without a motorized lens, so in the end I had to get the information from “other sources.”
I ordered not only the camera itself, but also a wall mount for it, which I’ll cover in this review as well. I received two neat little boxes. The mount’s box actually felt heavier than the camera’s.

Everything inside is neatly packed, and the camera is held firmly in place, so nothing rattles around. The mount is also packed snugly. No complaints here.

The package includes:
1. IPC-HDBW4431R-ZS camera
2. Mounting hardware
3. Waterproof cable gland
4. Star-shaped hex key.
5. Mounting template
6. Software CD.

The mounting sticker is standard for this type of system. I didn't even look at the disc, since everything can be downloaded from the manufacturer's website anyway, and besides, my computer doesn't even have a disc drive.
The mounting hardware is the usual "give it to your enemy" kind. The cable gland and hex key are useful, so don't lose them.

The camera has a dome form factor and is designed for ceiling or wall mounting. The connectors are standard for surveillance cameras: Ethernet with PoE support and a regular 5.5 mm power connector. Unfortunately, Dahua hasn't started making caps for the power connectors like Hikvision does now, but I think it's only a matter of time.
I won't describe how to use the cable gland; I've already covered that in another review. It's definitely useful, though, and I recommend using it even when installing the camera indoors, if only to keep it from getting lost.

The camera has two powerful IR LEDs rather than an array of small ones. The illuminator is controlled by a light sensor.

The camera housing is made of aluminum. On the last Hikvision camera I reviewed, the top part was plastic, with only the bottom made of metal. There's a cable channel on the underside of the housing.

Like any other dome camera, this one has to be opened at some point, at least for installation, since the camera is mounted from the inside for better protection. Use the included hex key to take it apart.

Here's a fairly important difference. To prevent condensation, the manufacturer included three to four times as much silica gel as in the Hikvision camera. Essentially, the inside of the front glass is lined with silica gel all the way around.

The inside is pretty familiar: a swivel mechanism that lets you rotate the whole assembly and tilt the camera up and down.

The optics and sensor are housed in a fully enclosed module, which looks very neat.

But there's another important difference. With the Hikvision, you could rotate the whole assembly horizontally and tilt the camera up or down. This one adds a third adjustment axis: the camera module itself can rotate around its axis by about 330–340 degrees, which can be genuinely useful for wall mounting. A big plus for Dahua's engineers on this one.

One more small plus: the camera has a memory card slot. Hikvision also makes cameras with this feature (the letter F at the end of the camera model number).

The limited space makes the slot a little awkward to use, but fortunately, you rarely need to.
To install a card, first slide the mechanism to the left (it's labeled, but hard to see) and open the cover. Then carefully place the card as shown in the first photo.
Hold the card in place, close the cover, and slide the mechanism to the right. That's it.
The camera definitely supports memory cards up to 128 GB. I haven't tested larger cards.

The rest of the disassembly is optional, and I don't recommend trying it unless you're sure you can put everything back together afterward.
I remove a couple of self-tapping screws on the sides of the mechanism and take out the camera module.

I happened to notice notches on the rotating part of the frame. In theory, the camera should move in steps, but in practice you can't really tell. I have to say, though, I really like the adjustment: it's smooth enough, but still tight without being overdone. I had to loosen these screws a little on the Hikvision.

The rest is more for the enthusiasts, so I'll hide it under a spoiler.
Only the image sensor is installed in the swivel assembly, so the module connects to the main board via a ribbon cable. The cable is routed rather awkwardly: at a large horizontal swivel angle, the mechanism itself can catch it, so be careful. While I was experimenting, the ribbon cable came slightly out of its connector, but everything still worked fine.

Disconnect the connectors, remove the ribbon cable, and set the camera module aside for now.

Three more screws, and the swivel frame comes off. You can just make out the sealing gasket around the perimeter of the housing here.

And here is the main board. The PoE power converters, battery, memory card slot, and reset button are on top.

1. Input power protection components.
2–4. Presumably voltage regulators.

After removing a few more screws, we have full access to the main board. On the underside, you can see a thermally conductive pad that transfers heat from the DSP to the aluminum housing—a standard solution. By the way, “Chinese” cameras usually have a separate heatsink, which seems like a really poor choice to me, since transferring heat to the housing is more effective.

The circuit board is neatly laid out, with components evenly distributed across its surface, which also helps with cooling. There are also some unpopulated component locations.

1. Hi3516 DSP. According to the
datasheet, this chip is designed for Full HD resolution, so it is a little odd to see it in a 4 MP camera. I suspect this is a different variant from the one in the datasheet I found.
The datasheet also says:
? Video inputs of 16-megapixel@2 fps,
5-megapixel@5 fps, 3-megapixel@15 fps,
1080p@30 fps or 720p@60 fps
2. 256 MB of RAM
3. LD8253 made by Toshiba, flash memory for storing the firmware. Its capacity is unknown, as I couldn't find a datasheet.
4. Ethernet chip, 100 Mbps.

Hi3516 DSP block diagram

Interestingly, with one sensor you can only get Full HD, while with two you get 720p + 5 MP.

1. Unknown component near the flash memory.
2–4. More voltage regulators and the PoE input section.

That wraps up our look at the main board. Let's move on to the camera module. The rear cover is held by a pair of clips, and underneath it is the image sensor board.

I've been asked several times about the IR filter, and now I have a chance to show what it actually looks like.
The design is very simple: a small piece of glass (visible inside) shifts on a small mechanism when the camera switches to night mode. You may hear a characteristic click as it moves. During the day, the camera needs a filter that blocks the IR component for accurate color reproduction. Without it, the colors in the image would be badly distorted. The mechanism can also freeze up in winter because of residual moisture. That's exactly why you shouldn't lubricate it: the filter shutter needs to move very freely, since the mechanism isn't very powerful.

Here's an example of what the image looks like. This was actually shot for a slightly different purpose—
link—but a surveillance camera will show roughly the same thing in its different modes:
1. Black-and-white mode
2. Color mode without the IR filter
3. Color mode with the IR filter.
At night, the camera switches to black-and-white mode, so color distortion doesn't matter. What does matter is that the camera can see in the IR range, allowing you to use IR LEDs for illumination, so the filter is moved out of the way.

Judging by the appearance of the board on the sensor side, it also serves as a heatsink. This is recommended to reduce noise in low-light conditions. The sensor dimensions in mm are marked on the board.

The sensor looks identical to the one in the 4 MP
Reolink cameras.

The camera almost completely disassembled. I left the lens itself alone; I didn't want to risk damaging the delicate mechanism.

As I mentioned right at the beginning, I also ordered a wall-mount bracket. The camera can be mounted directly on the wall, of course, but in some situations it's more convenient to use a "specially designed" bracket—especially since it's made by the same company, Dahua, so there'll be no need to modify it with a file and a few choice words.
The model is PFB203W, priced at $14.99,
linkThere's also the
PFB202W model. It costs more, but I couldn't figure out how it differs apart from the cable outlet location and weight.
This one also comes with fasteners and a small hex key, but here it's actually a hex key, not a "Torx". The wall fasteners are just as useless as the ones supplied with the camera, but the three hex-head screws are more useful.

It looks like.... well, it looks like a bracket, though it brought some other things to mind for me :)
There are plenty of hole-position options, so it's compatible with quite a wide range of cameras:

The top part of the bracket. No complaints about the paint job—it's very neat.

At the back is a removable wall-mounting plate; the cable outlet plug is visible on the right.

The mounting method is very simple: unscrew the screw at the top, remove the plate, attach the plate to the wall, then secure the bracket to it with the same screw you removed at the start.

There are two ways to install the camera.
1. The cable exits at the side of the camera through its standard opening.

Or, more neatly, you can hide the cable inside the bracket. This also lets you tuck the connector joint inside, for a cleaner look.

With the second installation option, the cable exits through the cutout in the bracket. The plug can be moved to cover the camera's standard cable outlet, but it's considerably longer than the space available in the camera housing, so it may not fit neatly.


The standard orientation has the camera underneath, with the bracket acting as a hood to protect it from rain and snow.

This is roughly how it looks on the wall. I didn't drill into the wall, and I had no spare holes to use for the demonstration, so I had to hold it by hand.

Software.
There are quite a few settings and screenshots here, so in addition to putting everything under spoilers, I'll also split it into groups.
First, an overview of the web interface.
To find out the camera's IP address, I first had to look up the Dahua camera documentation. It turned out that the default is usually 192.168.1.108.
Enter this address in your browser's address bar, and you'll be prompted to set a password. You'll also be asked to enter an email address for password recovery. I recommend doing this without fail; I'll explain why later.
You'll also be prompted to download an app for your smartphone, and once you get to the camera's actual menu, a plugin for viewing video.

After installing the plugin, the video appeared, but my old Opera browser showed an error even though it displayed the video. In the end, Internet Explorer was the only browser that worked properly. This is a familiar quirk with cameras: they usually work better in IE than in other browsers.

So, launch IE and everything works fine. The following options are available:
Top menu
1. Digital zoom
2. Take a snapshot
3. Take three snapshots, very handy.
4. Start video recording manually
5. Force autofocus.
Bottom menu
1. Image settings
2. Several zoom settings.
3. Smoothness — Standard / With delay. In the first mode, the response time is about 0.3 seconds; in the second, about one second. As I understand it, the video buffer is larger in the second mode, allowing for smoother decoding.
4. Rules — On/Off. I haven't looked into this; I assume it handles alarm responses.
5. Focus. This mode is currently enabled. A menu appears on the right for controlling optical zoom and focus. The camera focuses automatically, but you can do it manually if needed.

The archive menu works only with a memory card. There's not much unusual here, except that you can set up continuous recording and overlay motion information on the footage to make it easier to search. This feature is useful for particularly critical locations where recording shouldn't be interrupted, while still making it easier to find motion.
Fast playback works, but only up to 2x; beyond that, everything starts lagging badly.

The menu for viewing saved photos is nothing unusual, except for the event options. As far as I can tell, most of them aren't supported by this camera.

Image settings menu. Standard brightness, contrast, and color settings, as well as mirroring and rotation. The last option is needed in corridor mode.

There are quite a lot of image settings overall, and in some ways this camera turned out to be even more flexible than Hikvision.
The screenshot is small; click it to see the full-size version.
1. Exposure and noise reduction settings. I should note that noise reduction works very effectively; I'll demonstrate this later.
2, 3. Backlight. Though this is probably a poor translation, since these settings include BLC, WDR, and the rather unusual HLC setting. Elsewhere, the latter is translated as “Glare Suppression.” BLC can be set to the default, covering the whole frame, or to a selected area. Unlike Hikvision, there are no other options here.
4, 5. White balance can be set for the whole frame or for a selected area, though I don't really see the point of the latter.
6. Day/night mode. In addition to the day/night/auto modes, there are sensitivity settings (3 levels) and a delay time (from 1 to 10 seconds), which is handy. In my opinion, it's no worse than Hikvision's, and maybe even better.
7. Turn on the illuminator. Manual (adjust the distance, which effectively means the power) or Smart — automatic brightness adjustment.
8. This is a mode I definitely haven't seen on Hikvision: anti-fog. Unfortunately, we don't have any fog yet, and testing it on a normal image barely changes anything. It seemed to me that it simply enhances the image contours, but I can't say for sure; this is a new feature to me.

1. You can switch settings according to scheduled profiles, separately for daytime and nighttime. It's convenient in principle, but nothing unusual.
2. There are also settings for the speed of focal-length changes and focusing, though I didn't notice any difference in practice. There's also a manual setting and a Reset button. As it turned out, that button is very important, but more on that in the testing section.

Video encoding settings.
1. Compression — several codec options, plus Basic and High encoding profiles.
2. Enable Smart Codec. There's no major difference; when enabled, the software chooses the interval between keyframes automatically.
3. Resolution — 2592x1520 (4 MP), 2560x1440 (3.6 MP), 2048x1536, 2304x1296, 1920x1080, 1280x960, 1280x720. The secondary stream supports 720x576, 640x480, and 352x288.
4. Frame rate — from 1 to 25 at all resolutions except the maximum, where it's up to 20 fps.
5. Constant/variable bitrate
6. Bitrate — from 4096 to 10240. At resolutions of 1920x1080 and below, you can set it to only 8 or 6 Mbps. The secondary stream goes up to 2 Mbps.
7. Keyframe interval.
8. SVC, a video stream smoothing function; Hikvision has the same feature.
In practice, everything here is much the same as on Hikvision, except that the maximum stream bitrate is lower.

Photos are taken at the same resolution as the video, and you can set the image quality and automatic capture interval.

1, 2. Options for overlaying a mask, the time, and other information on the image. You can also overlay your own image: it must be a 256-color BMP file, up to 128x128 pixels (I had to limit it to 120x120, otherwise it wouldn't fit in 16 KB).
3. As with Hikvision, you can use one region with enhanced encoding quality (ROI).
4. This is also where you configure the paths for saving video, photos, and other data.

There are lots of network settings; I've selected just the main ones.

1. Motion detection—nothing unusual here.
2, 3. I haven't seen these features on Hikvision: lens tampering detection and scene change detection (for example, if the camera is turned).

Video analytics offers two options: face recognition and video analytics. You can either turn everything off or enable just one of them.
The functionality is roughly on par with ordinary Hikvision cameras and falls short of the more powerful 2085, but the implementation isn't very intuitive.

Error notifications.
1. Memory card problem notifications.
2. Network problem notifications.
3. This section also includes an important setting: blocking access after an incorrect password entry, and the number of failed attempts before access is blocked. The feature can be useful, but I strongly recommend disabling it, as it may end up causing more problems than it solves.

Recording options. You can also enable continuous recording and motion-triggered recording at the same time. In that case, the playback timeline will mark where motion occurred and where recording was continuous. These settings apply to recording on the internal memory card.

1. The same options, but for photo capture.
2. Schedule management settings.

1. Configure storage and assign events to storage devices. For example, record to a NAS and memory card when an alarm is triggered, but to the NAS only during normal recording.
2. Prepare and maintain the memory card.
3, 4. Configure access to FTP and NAS.

Additional recording settings
1. Length of each continuous video clip.
2. Pre-recording time.
3. Continuous or one-time recording.
4. Record manually or in response to events.
5. Which of the two streams to record.

Automatic time synchronization and video stream output settings.

User passwords and logins for main access and ONVIF access.

An IP address filter to improve access security and prevent unauthorized connections.

1. Partial or full settings reset.
2. Import/export settings.
3. Configure automatic camera reboots and automatic file deletion.
4. Firmware update menu. Unfortunately, I couldn't find this camera on the manufacturer's website, and I have little experience with cameras from this brand, so I couldn't find the corresponding firmware or any information about compatibility.
Hikvision makes this a little easier: if the camera is "European," you just download the firmware and check the accompanying list of compatible cameras.

Information about the current firmware version, serial number, and so on.

Logs. The camera records almost all actions performed by the operator or administrator, which may come in handy.

I'll be more concise here, but not because there isn't much information or many settings. Most of them repeat the settings and options I showed above when describing the web interface, so I'll cover only the essentials here.
To use it with a computer, you need to download the software from the manufacturer's website. Since the manufacturer is a large company, the software is localized into Russian, and quite well, too.
The software consists of two separate programs, SmartPSS and PC-NVR, but they behave a little unusually. When you launch SmartPSS, both applications start at once. But when you exit, PC-NVR keeps running, and you can only close it by entering the access password.
In other words, PC-NVR is the actual recorder, running as a background service, while SmartPSS is used for monitoring, configuration, viewing live video, and recording.
The software is quite powerful. Unfortunately, some things didn't work for me, but in practice you don't need everything anyway. Each item has a short description beneath its name, which is handy. It's also convenient that you can do more than just select several functions: for example, you can split the program window into multiple windows simply by dragging one by its title bar to an empty area of the computer screen.

When you launch the software, you can enable it to search for and connect to Dahua equipment. The PC-NVR software will also appear here, and you'll need to connect it to the program as well.

But then I got a surprise. I selected the camera that had been found, as usual, and entered the username and password I'd set earlier, but the camera wouldn't connect and showed an offline status.
To be honest, I experimented for a long time: set an ONVIF password, tried connecting with other software, and wrestled with the manufacturer's own software, but the result was always the same—offline.
At some point, my browser stopped accepting the password and started counting the number of attempts. That's when I got worried. The thing is, I'd made a mistake when entering my email address, but managed to correct it at the last moment and wasn't sure whether the change had been applied. Luckily, it had.
So, a couple of things to keep in mind:
1. Enter a real email address and double-check it.
2. Disable the limit on the number of attempts.
To recover the password, I had to download the Android app and restore it from there. I'll explain how below.
The point is, after I restored access and set the same password again (letters + numbers), everything worked! I have to say, it felt like some kind of magic.

After that, I connected to the camera without any problems and got access to the settings and live video.

As I mentioned, all the settings are available, but the grouping and names are a little different. Still, it's fairly easy to figure things out.

But configuring the recording turned out to be a bit more complicated.
First, I selected the drive for video recording and created the folder structure using the video surveillance software (the button to the right of the histogram for drive F).

I selected the required channel—fortunately, there was only one—and confirmed the save.

I created a recording schedule and set it to be the same for every day of the week.

I saved the settings, but recording didn't start. In the end, I repeated the last steps, went through the motion detector settings, and only then did recording start. My verdict on the software: there are almost too many settings, and it's easy to get lost in them. Hikvision's software felt a little more straightforward and quicker to use.

The recorded-video playback window left me with mixed feelings. You can view everything here, and in some ways it's convenient, but:
1. Fast playback is disappointing. Whether the video is on the memory card or the computer, you can realistically watch it at no more than 2x speed, even though it was recorded to an SSD and played back locally.
2. Before searching for recordings, you have to select where to search. But after you run a search, the checkbox is cleared, so it's easy to forget to tick it again before the next search.

On the plus side, the calendar highlights the days when recordings are available.

You can select the time range you're interested in and save just that portion. I find this easier to do in ILDVR software, where you simply set the start and end times, but this works fine too. The only thing to watch out for is that the camera and recorder clocks need to match; otherwise, you may run into problems.

Recorded video can be exported in several different formats, which is very convenient.

This section will be very short, because I couldn't get the camera to work through the app.
First, I downloaded the Lechenge app, which used to be called easy4ip.
I created an account as usual: email, password, everything was fine.

To add the camera, you can either enter its number manually or scan the QR code on the bottom of the camera or on the packaging. I scanned it, and the code was added (the QR scanner in the software is painfully slow).
Next, you have to select the type of device you're adding. I tried both Camera and Other Device, with the same result.

Since the camera isn't Wi-Fi, I select No and use a wired connection, then enter the password. The default password is admin, but mine had been changed, so the default immediately returned an authentication error. I had to enter the password I'd set—the one I use to access the camera and its Windows software.

It tries to connect, and that's it: error 40007. I tried various things, setting the camera's IP address and DNS manually and using DHCP, but it made no difference.
If anyone knows what the catch is, let me know and I'll give it a try.
The only thing the software actually helped me with was recovering the password, as I mentioned above. The recovery process is simple, but requires the Lechenge software.
1. Open a browser on your computer and start the password recovery process.
2. The software displays a large QR code and a field for entering the verification code.
3. Scan the QR code in the Lechenge app under Device Password Reset.
4. A code arrives by email a few minutes later, which is why it's critical to enter the correct email address.
5. Enter the code in the browser window on your computer, then set a new password.

Now for the tests. Since the camera has a varifocal lens, there will be a few more tests than usual.
In the sections on the software and web interface, I mentioned an important button: Reset in the zoom control menu. The thing is, as you zoom in and out while using the camera, the zero point—or, more precisely, the lens's minimum focal length position—shifts, which can produce an unpleasant effect.
Here is the maximum field of view after about a day of very active camera use without resetting the lens.

And here is the same camera from the same angle, but after resetting the lens to its original position. The camera moves the lens to its minimum focal length, the motor hums for a few seconds, and it autofocuses at the minimum focal length.
You can clearly see that the field of view has increased noticeably, so I recommend resetting it periodically—in effect, recalibrating the lens's zero point.
I also want to point out the good color reproduction and the correct operation of the AWB (Auto White Balance) function.

In complete darkness, without BLC

With BLC enabled

The same shot, but at maximum zoom. The chart is about 3.5 m away.


Resolution test. For this test, the lens was set to a focal length of about 4 mm.

Sharpness at the corners is quite good and not much different from the center.

And a comparison with other camera models.
1. The camera under review (4 MP and about 4 mm)
2. DS-2CD1141-I (4 MP and 2.8 mm)
3. DS-2CD2042WD-I (4 MP and 4 mm)
4. Reolink RLC-410WS (4 MP and 4 mm)
The photo shows that the camera tries to sharpen the image outlines, even though the video processing settings were left at the manufacturer's defaults. But I can say that the camera's image quality is at least as good as the competition's, and may even be better.

The camera is mounted about 12 meters high; you can roughly estimate the distance from the photos.
By default, the camera is set to 2560x1440 resolution (3.6 MP) at 25 fps.

In some tests, I switched it to the maximum resolution of 2592x1520 (4 MP). The frame rate dropped to 20 fps, while the image area increased.

The camera at maximum zoom.

The visible area at different zoom levels: 0% - 25% - 50% - 75% - 100%.

People often ask me how well you can see a car. In this example, the car is quite far away. First, here's the full frame with no zoom.

Then, without moving the camera, I simply set the zoom to 25%, 50%, 75%, and 100%.

The house across the street, no zoom

Maximum zoom

Image enhancement in action; below is a crop from the full frame.
1. No processing
2. BLC
3. HLC (highlight suppression).
4. WDR

Another example. Here the camera is at maximum zoom, and this is a crop, as before.

A woman with a phone, maximum zoom


Everything looks great in the evening, so there won't be many photos.
Dusk; color mode is still on.

It's noticeably darker now, and the streetlights are on. The cat from my previous review is heading out on the hunt :)

Maximum zoom under the same conditions.

Forced color mode; it works pretty well, actually.

For almost the entire test, I had the lens focal length set to about 4 mm so that too much wouldn't end up in the frame. At night, the full frame looks like this.

The camera also performs reasonably well at night, despite having just two LEDs, albeit powerful ones.

50% zoom

100% zoom

When the BLC function is enabled, the image starts to stutter. You can see this as trails behind fast-moving objects. With processing disabled, there is no frame drop. I can't guarantee 100% that it was specifically the BLC function, though, since I ran the test almost a week ago. I'll check again tonight.

Here's how the noise reduction works. The photo below shows the result with noise reduction disabled; the difference from the photos above is noticeable.

Camera illumination off, noise reduction on.

Illumination at 25 - 50 - 75 - 100%. Intelligent illumination also switches to 100% in these conditions.

I'm often asked: “I want to install a camera outside the window to keep an eye on my car. How will it work at night? Will the illumination be enough?”
I usually answer:
1. Mounting the camera high up immediately negates any zoom, even a high one, because looking down from above is not the same as looking from the side. The ideal mounting height is at the top of the first floor, or at most the second.
2. Built-in illumination is usually completely ineffective.
3. The image under IR illumination is often noticeably worse than under regular lighting, so if you want a decent image at night, install a regular floodlight.
Here's an example. The camera itself takes pretty good pictures at night, but even it can't get a clear view of a person near a car about 14 meters away, even though they're almost right in the camera's illumination beam.
To get this camera to see a person's face better, you need to:
1. Reduce the camera's field of view by a factor of 2, or even 2.5.
2. Install an additional floodlight, though it might manage without one.
3. Lower the camera from 12 m to 6.
4. Duct-tape the person to the car so they don't move and blur the image.

Day
Dahua IPC-HDBW4431R-ZS

Hikvision DS-2CD1141-I

Hikvision DS-2CD2085FWD-I

Dusk
Dahua IPC-HDBW4431R-ZS

Hikvision DS-2CD1141-I

Late evening
Dahua IPC-HDBW4431R-ZS

Hikvision DS-2CD1141-I

Night
Dahua IPC-HDBW4431R-ZS

Hikvision DS-2CD1141-I

Hikvision DS-2CD2085FWD-I

Video samples:
1. Day, 2560x1440 at 25 fps
2. Evening, 2592x1520 at 20 fps
3. Night, 2560x1440 at 25 fps
Before wrapping up, I should make a brief digression about using cameras with motorized lenses. In my opinion, they have a fairly narrow range of applications, since they need an operator to work properly. For example, a camera like this would work well at the entrance to a guarded facility, where the guard occasionally needs to zoom in for a better view of a license plate, while the camera otherwise serves as a general overview camera.
Another option is keeping an eye on your car: most of the time the camera records a wide view of the yard, and when you need to watch the car, you zoom in as much as you like.
There is also a third use case, where you simply need to set the desired fixed viewing angle. For that, you can use:
1. A fixed lens or a camera with a specific focal length. This is the cheapest option, but much less flexible and difficult in some situations.
2. A camera with a manual varifocal lens. More expensive than a fixed-lens option and offers more flexibility, but you have to adjust the camera—and especially focus it—by hand.
3. A camera with a motorized lens. The most convenient option, but also the most expensive.
If all you need is to set the desired angle, first decide whether you're willing to pay more for option 3 than for options 1 and 2. If so, you'll get a pretty convenient piece of equipment; if not, you can get the same result for less, with a little less convenience.
Now, about the camera itself.
Although I knew Dahua was a fairly large company that also makes decent equipment, I was still pleasantly surprised by how well the camera performed. The image is sharp, with good color reproduction and decent sensitivity, and there are plenty of video enhancement and processing options. Other pluses include a memory card slot and a fully metal housing with plenty of silica gel inside and a properly designed heat sink.
In terms of features, it's roughly comparable to Hikvision cameras in the same segment—some things it does better, some worse, but overall they're about on par. Dahua uses a fairly old HiSilicon chip for video processing, while Hikvision uses Ambarella, but I preferred Dahua's image quality.
The computer software is a bit of a mixed bag. It offers a lot of features, but that comes at the cost of some ease of use, although it's perfectly fine for viewing and recording. I spent a lot of time on the initial setup; “Chinese” cameras, and Reolink in particular, are much easier to set up, though they have their own drawbacks too. I was a little disappointed with the native player, which has trouble playing back at speeds above 2x.
I couldn't get the Android app to run in the end. Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but I haven't had this kind of problem with other cameras before, and I really hope they'll “fix” this feature.
I also liked the mounting bracket, though its price is a little... steep. It's convenient, though, and there's a link in the review in case it's useful.
As for the price, the store offered a discount coupon: CAMDAHUA. With it, the price should be $83.99 through July 9. The coupon can be extended if needed. They promised free shipping.
At first glance, the price may seem high, but if you take the $69 Hikvision DS-2CD1141-I that I reviewed recently and add:
1. A motorized lens
2. A memory card slot
3. Higher sensitivity thanks to a better, faster lens
4. A fully metal housing
Then the extra $15 doesn't seem like much after all.
That's all from me. As always, I'm looking forward to your questions, especially since it's impossible to cover everything in a review. You may have suggestions for additional tests; I'll do them if I can. I hope you found the review useful. In my view, Hikvision has a pretty strong competitor here.
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