Power supplies: how they differ and how to choose the right one
A common question that comes up very often is: which power supply should I choose for an amplifier, LED backlighting, an adjustable converter, or other equally useful devices? Choosing a power supply is an important decision, so let’s try to figure out how they differ and how to choose “the one.”
As usual, a reminder: to keep up with new topics on the blog, I recommend following me on Instagram, where I’ll post notifications about every new article and might also write about something interesting — link to account
Let’s start by explaining how power supplies differ from one another. This will make it easier to choose one that meets the requirements of your particular application.
1. Power supply type: switching or 50 Hz transformer-based.
These days, “conventional” power supplies have fallen not just to second place, but probably to third. So there’s a good chance a switching power supply will be the easier choice—in other words, an SMPS (switch-mode power supply). That doesn’t mean transformer-based power supplies are obsolete; they’re used where specific requirements apply, such as lower noise or increased electrical safety.
2. Input voltage range.
Power supplies usually have either a “wide” input range, from 85 (100) V to 265 V, or a “narrow” range of 198–265 V. Lower-power supplies are more often designed for the wide range, while higher-power models have a 115/230 V selector switch.
3. Output voltage.
Power supplies typically come with output voltages of 3.3, 5, 9, 12, 15, 24, 36, 48, or 60 V. Choose the one that suits your needs.
5 V — addressable LED strips, USB devices, LED displays
12–24 V — standard LED strips, amplifiers, monitors, radios, 3D printers
36 V — well suited to powering various converters
48 V — PoE devices, step-down converters
In most cases, the output can be adjusted within a small range, around ±10%. The maximum adjustment is usually 15–20%; beyond that, problems may arise. A trimmer is used to adjust the voltage.
4. Power.
You’ll most likely need power supplies rated from 5–10 W up to 500–600 W, though much more powerful models are available. As with voltage, power ratings tend to fall into certain groups: 10, 25, 35, 50 (60), 100, 150, 200, 240 W, and so on.
If your load is only used briefly, you can choose a power supply with little or no headroom. But for continuous operation, it’s better to allow around 20–25% headroom for inexpensive models and 10–15% for branded ones. This will extend their service life.
The input and output voltages and power rating are shown on the label on the case.
Often, you can even tell the power rating and output voltage from the model name. For example, the unit on the right is an S-120-24: 120 is its power rating, and 24 is its output voltage.
5. Power factor correction.
Active power factor correction is the most common type, usually found in higher-power supplies. For home use, though, it isn’t essential, and power supplies with PFC cost more.
6. Number of outputs.
Single-output power supplies are the most common, but there are also models with multiple output voltages, such as 12 and 5 V. Some power supplies also include a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) function.
7. Construction.
Power supplies are available as bare circuit boards, in plastic cases, or in perforated metal enclosures. They can be standard or slim (low-profile), designed for panel or DIN-rail mounting, or narrow models for LED fixtures. The most common and popular type is the unit in an aluminum case with a cover.
8. Cooling
Cooling can be passive or active, using a fan. If possible, it’s better to use a passively cooled power supply: its case acts as a heatsink, and with no fan, there’s nothing to clog with dust. Unfortunately, the power rating of passively cooled supplies is often limited to around 200–250 W; models rated above 300–350 W come with a fan.
9. Manufacturer.
Of course, it’s better to buy a reputable brand, such as the well-known Mean Well or Delta. But if the application isn’t critical, you can certainly choose a lesser-known manufacturer and save some money.
Today’s article covers some of the most popular power supplies, especially among radio amateurs.
We’ll be looking at power supplies in metal enclosures. They offer a good power-to-price ratio, convenient terminal-block connections, and a wide range of models.
Let’s start with the lowest-power models. One of them is shown on the left and is rated at 12 W with a 12 V output.
But the much more interesting range is the 25–60 W power supplies, available with different output voltages and, accordingly, different currents. Inside, these are often decent power supplies that operate over a wide input-voltage range, which is useful when the mains voltage fluctuates significantly.
For example, models:
S-20-5
S-25-12
S-36-24
S-60-12
and so on.
They look almost identical, but you can tell them apart by the model number: the first number is the power rating, and the second is the output voltage. These power supplies are handy for powering various chargers, surveillance cameras, LED strips, fans, and so on.
Ultra-thin power supplies make up a separate group, although it would probably be more accurate to call them ultra-narrow, since they have a small cross-section but are long.
These power supplies also have standard output voltages of 12 or 24 V, and are usually rated at around 12–48 W, although more powerful models are available.
Their intended use is clear from the form factor: LED lighting. But of course, there’s nothing stopping you from using them with other loads, too.
You can see some of the more interesting models here.
The model numbering is a little different here: the first number still indicates the power rating, but the second is the output current. So you can find the output voltage either from the full model number or by dividing the first number by the second.
Below is an example of the label on an LF-CB48-4A power supply, which has a 12 V output and can supply up to 4 A.
Keep in mind that this series of power supplies is designed for a “narrow” input-voltage range of 180 to 260 V.
The NeonPro power supplies made by Hyrite belong to the same series. The fact that they’re available only in 12 and 24 V versions points to their primary use for powering LED strips, which are also most commonly designed for 12 or 24 V. Their model numbering is different, too: the first number is the voltage, and the second is the power rating.
As with the previous models, they have a full set of protections against overheating, overloads, and short circuits.
Power supplies that fall somewhere between the very large models and those shown above are also worth a look. Here, too, the case acts as a heatsink, and higher-power versions with active cooling are available. They’re used where the case width is limited.
Popular examples include the SOMPOM S-75-24 and SOMPOM S-120-12 models, rated at 75 and 120 W, respectively. The model numbering is standard: the first number is the power rating in watts, and the second is the output voltage.
Another useful category is genuinely ultra-flat power supplies, which are more often used in embedded applications. These power supplies are usually rated from 120 to 400 W.
Most models use passive cooling, although models rated above 300 W already come with a fan.
These days, power supplies are often labeled “LED Power supply,” which naturally makes buyers wonder whether they’re intended only for LED lighting. Of course not. These and similar power supplies can be used to power all kinds of loads, including audio amplifiers. They’re basically ordinary power supplies with an extra label.
But if you specifically need a driver for powering high-power LED arrays, look for the label LED driver. Their output voltage is usually given as a range, for example 24–36 or 30–49 V, although fixed-voltage versions are also available.
The key difference between a power supply and a driver is that continuous current limiting is a normal operating mode for a driver, but a fault condition for a power supply.
Alongside LED lighting, 3D printers are becoming increasingly popular. They need a lot of power to heat the bed, and the voltage is usually 12 or 24 V.
In these cases, a good option is an enclosed power supply with passive cooling. The reason is simple: a fan adds noise, and a printer can run for many hours. The fan is also a potential point of failure; if it stops, the power supply will most likely fail. The required power is in the 150–200 W range, so it’s better to use 250 W power supplies.
Another application is powering LED screens and addressable LED strips. The catch is that they need 5 V and a high current, around 30–50 A or more. In these cases, you need power supplies with active cooling, since in addition to their high power, they often have lower efficiency due to the low voltage.
One way around this is to split the load into several groups and power them from lower-power supplies, but this solution costs more.
An example of using a 5 V power supply as a source for a multichannel charging station or a small mining farm.
Higher-power supplies are used to power CNC machines and adjustable voltage converters. Here, the required voltage is in the 48–60 V range, and the power is 800 W or more.
These supplies are noticeably larger, with a more powerful fan inside—sometimes two—as well as a separate supply for the PWM controller and larger heatsinks. Examples include NVVV supplies and similar models. They’re often sold under different brands, although the units inside are usually identical — link
In some situations, the power supply has to be installed outdoors. Sealed supplies are often used for this, but when high power and active cooling are required, a design with a fan mounted underneath is used instead. These power supplies aren’t sealed, but the enclosure is designed to let them operate normally outdoors. Even so, you still need to use an enclosure for electrical safety.
Here are a few similar power supplies with different power ratings — link
And of course, it’s worth mentioning Mean Well, one of the largest power supply manufacturers. The company makes such a huge range of power supplies, LED drivers, and converters that there’s no way to cover them all in an overview article, so I’ll briefly go over the key models.
For a long time, the NES series was popular—for example, the NES-350-24. The RS series, known for its higher reliability, was also widely used. But some time ago, the company released the LRS series. It has the same width and length as the NES, but is shorter, making it a low-profile design. The internals were also updated, making them more modern and allowing the supplies to be made more compact.
LRS models are available with passive cooling, such as the 100 W LRS-100-12 and 150 W LRS-150-12, as well as with active cooling, as in the LRS-350. The first number indicates the power rating, and the second, the output voltage.
There are quite a lot of very similar power supplies on the market under other names. What’s remarkable is that they’re often so alike inside and out that you could easily mistake one for another. Basically, other manufacturers copy Mean Well; their quality is usually a little lower, but they’re also cheaper.
Mean Well power supplies are available in a wide range of power ratings. On the left is the “little one,” the 15 W RS-15-24; in the middle, the 600 W, 12 V SE-600-12; and on the right, the even more powerful S-1000-24, with 1000 W output. There’s also an externally identical S-1200-24 model, rated at 24 V and 50 A.
The list of power supplies could go on forever, but to wrap up, here are a couple of words about models that differ from those shown above.
First, the RD series, which has two output voltages. Examples include the 35 W RD-35A, with 5 + 12 V outputs, and the 65 W RD-65B, with 5 + 24 V outputs. These supplies are handy for external hard drive enclosures, as well as devices where, for example, the controller needs 5 V while the power section needs 24 V.
Even more interesting are power supplies with a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) function. You connect a standard 12 or 24 V battery to these supplies, and the power supply monitors its charge and provides uninterrupted power to the load, such as a video surveillance system.
The AD series includes two models, the AD-55 and AD-155, rated at 55 and 155 W. The suffix indicates the voltage: A means 12 (13.8) V, and B means 24 (27.6) V. In addition, these power supplies have an output signal indicating that mains power has been lost.
I currently have a similar power supply running around the clock in my multi-channel battery tester, which is especially useful given the current state of the power supply.
To wrap up, here are the key points to consider when choosing a power supply.
Input voltage — under normal conditions, it doesn't matter. For areas with an unstable mains supply, it's better to choose a unit with a wide input range, though these are usually limited to 100–150 W.
Output voltage — depends on the application; it can often be adjusted slightly as well.
Output current — should be at least as high as required. It can be higher; that won't hurt the load.
Output power — it's best to allow a margin of around 20–30%, depending on the manufacturer, especially if the unit will be running at full load for extended periods.
Cooling — passive cooling is preferable, but power supplies of this type are usually limited in power and cost more. On the plus side, they have no moving parts and are much less prone to dust buildup.
Manufacturer — Mean Well is a good choice, but power supplies from other manufacturers, such as NVVV, Sanpu, and NeonPro, can work perfectly well too.
Choose your power supply carefully, because the reliable, long-term operation of your devices depends on it.
As usual, a reminder: to keep up with new topics on the blog, I recommend following me on Instagram, where I’ll post notifications about every new article and might also write about something interesting — link to account
Let’s start by explaining how power supplies differ from one another. This will make it easier to choose one that meets the requirements of your particular application.
1. Power supply type: switching or 50 Hz transformer-based.
These days, “conventional” power supplies have fallen not just to second place, but probably to third. So there’s a good chance a switching power supply will be the easier choice—in other words, an SMPS (switch-mode power supply). That doesn’t mean transformer-based power supplies are obsolete; they’re used where specific requirements apply, such as lower noise or increased electrical safety.
2. Input voltage range.
Power supplies usually have either a “wide” input range, from 85 (100) V to 265 V, or a “narrow” range of 198–265 V. Lower-power supplies are more often designed for the wide range, while higher-power models have a 115/230 V selector switch.
3. Output voltage.
Power supplies typically come with output voltages of 3.3, 5, 9, 12, 15, 24, 36, 48, or 60 V. Choose the one that suits your needs.
5 V — addressable LED strips, USB devices, LED displays
12–24 V — standard LED strips, amplifiers, monitors, radios, 3D printers
36 V — well suited to powering various converters
48 V — PoE devices, step-down converters
In most cases, the output can be adjusted within a small range, around ±10%. The maximum adjustment is usually 15–20%; beyond that, problems may arise. A trimmer is used to adjust the voltage.
4. Power.
You’ll most likely need power supplies rated from 5–10 W up to 500–600 W, though much more powerful models are available. As with voltage, power ratings tend to fall into certain groups: 10, 25, 35, 50 (60), 100, 150, 200, 240 W, and so on.
If your load is only used briefly, you can choose a power supply with little or no headroom. But for continuous operation, it’s better to allow around 20–25% headroom for inexpensive models and 10–15% for branded ones. This will extend their service life.
The input and output voltages and power rating are shown on the label on the case.
Often, you can even tell the power rating and output voltage from the model name. For example, the unit on the right is an S-120-24: 120 is its power rating, and 24 is its output voltage.
5. Power factor correction.
Active power factor correction is the most common type, usually found in higher-power supplies. For home use, though, it isn’t essential, and power supplies with PFC cost more.
6. Number of outputs.
Single-output power supplies are the most common, but there are also models with multiple output voltages, such as 12 and 5 V. Some power supplies also include a UPS (uninterruptible power supply) function.
7. Construction.
Power supplies are available as bare circuit boards, in plastic cases, or in perforated metal enclosures. They can be standard or slim (low-profile), designed for panel or DIN-rail mounting, or narrow models for LED fixtures. The most common and popular type is the unit in an aluminum case with a cover.
8. Cooling
Cooling can be passive or active, using a fan. If possible, it’s better to use a passively cooled power supply: its case acts as a heatsink, and with no fan, there’s nothing to clog with dust. Unfortunately, the power rating of passively cooled supplies is often limited to around 200–250 W; models rated above 300–350 W come with a fan.
9. Manufacturer.
Of course, it’s better to buy a reputable brand, such as the well-known Mean Well or Delta. But if the application isn’t critical, you can certainly choose a lesser-known manufacturer and save some money.
Today’s article covers some of the most popular power supplies, especially among radio amateurs.
We’ll be looking at power supplies in metal enclosures. They offer a good power-to-price ratio, convenient terminal-block connections, and a wide range of models.
Let’s start with the lowest-power models. One of them is shown on the left and is rated at 12 W with a 12 V output.
But the much more interesting range is the 25–60 W power supplies, available with different output voltages and, accordingly, different currents. Inside, these are often decent power supplies that operate over a wide input-voltage range, which is useful when the mains voltage fluctuates significantly.
For example, models:
S-20-5
S-25-12
S-36-24
S-60-12
and so on.
They look almost identical, but you can tell them apart by the model number: the first number is the power rating, and the second is the output voltage. These power supplies are handy for powering various chargers, surveillance cameras, LED strips, fans, and so on.
Ultra-thin power supplies make up a separate group, although it would probably be more accurate to call them ultra-narrow, since they have a small cross-section but are long.
These power supplies also have standard output voltages of 12 or 24 V, and are usually rated at around 12–48 W, although more powerful models are available.
Their intended use is clear from the form factor: LED lighting. But of course, there’s nothing stopping you from using them with other loads, too.
You can see some of the more interesting models here.
The model numbering is a little different here: the first number still indicates the power rating, but the second is the output current. So you can find the output voltage either from the full model number or by dividing the first number by the second.
Below is an example of the label on an LF-CB48-4A power supply, which has a 12 V output and can supply up to 4 A.
Keep in mind that this series of power supplies is designed for a “narrow” input-voltage range of 180 to 260 V.
The NeonPro power supplies made by Hyrite belong to the same series. The fact that they’re available only in 12 and 24 V versions points to their primary use for powering LED strips, which are also most commonly designed for 12 or 24 V. Their model numbering is different, too: the first number is the voltage, and the second is the power rating.
As with the previous models, they have a full set of protections against overheating, overloads, and short circuits.
Power supplies that fall somewhere between the very large models and those shown above are also worth a look. Here, too, the case acts as a heatsink, and higher-power versions with active cooling are available. They’re used where the case width is limited.
Popular examples include the SOMPOM S-75-24 and SOMPOM S-120-12 models, rated at 75 and 120 W, respectively. The model numbering is standard: the first number is the power rating in watts, and the second is the output voltage.
Another useful category is genuinely ultra-flat power supplies, which are more often used in embedded applications. These power supplies are usually rated from 120 to 400 W.
Most models use passive cooling, although models rated above 300 W already come with a fan.
These days, power supplies are often labeled “LED Power supply,” which naturally makes buyers wonder whether they’re intended only for LED lighting. Of course not. These and similar power supplies can be used to power all kinds of loads, including audio amplifiers. They’re basically ordinary power supplies with an extra label.
But if you specifically need a driver for powering high-power LED arrays, look for the label LED driver. Their output voltage is usually given as a range, for example 24–36 or 30–49 V, although fixed-voltage versions are also available.
The key difference between a power supply and a driver is that continuous current limiting is a normal operating mode for a driver, but a fault condition for a power supply.
Alongside LED lighting, 3D printers are becoming increasingly popular. They need a lot of power to heat the bed, and the voltage is usually 12 or 24 V.
In these cases, a good option is an enclosed power supply with passive cooling. The reason is simple: a fan adds noise, and a printer can run for many hours. The fan is also a potential point of failure; if it stops, the power supply will most likely fail. The required power is in the 150–200 W range, so it’s better to use 250 W power supplies.
Another application is powering LED screens and addressable LED strips. The catch is that they need 5 V and a high current, around 30–50 A or more. In these cases, you need power supplies with active cooling, since in addition to their high power, they often have lower efficiency due to the low voltage.
One way around this is to split the load into several groups and power them from lower-power supplies, but this solution costs more.
An example of using a 5 V power supply as a source for a multichannel charging station or a small mining farm.
Higher-power supplies are used to power CNC machines and adjustable voltage converters. Here, the required voltage is in the 48–60 V range, and the power is 800 W or more.
These supplies are noticeably larger, with a more powerful fan inside—sometimes two—as well as a separate supply for the PWM controller and larger heatsinks. Examples include NVVV supplies and similar models. They’re often sold under different brands, although the units inside are usually identical — link
In some situations, the power supply has to be installed outdoors. Sealed supplies are often used for this, but when high power and active cooling are required, a design with a fan mounted underneath is used instead. These power supplies aren’t sealed, but the enclosure is designed to let them operate normally outdoors. Even so, you still need to use an enclosure for electrical safety.
Here are a few similar power supplies with different power ratings — link
And of course, it’s worth mentioning Mean Well, one of the largest power supply manufacturers. The company makes such a huge range of power supplies, LED drivers, and converters that there’s no way to cover them all in an overview article, so I’ll briefly go over the key models.
For a long time, the NES series was popular—for example, the NES-350-24. The RS series, known for its higher reliability, was also widely used. But some time ago, the company released the LRS series. It has the same width and length as the NES, but is shorter, making it a low-profile design. The internals were also updated, making them more modern and allowing the supplies to be made more compact.
LRS models are available with passive cooling, such as the 100 W LRS-100-12 and 150 W LRS-150-12, as well as with active cooling, as in the LRS-350. The first number indicates the power rating, and the second, the output voltage.
There are quite a lot of very similar power supplies on the market under other names. What’s remarkable is that they’re often so alike inside and out that you could easily mistake one for another. Basically, other manufacturers copy Mean Well; their quality is usually a little lower, but they’re also cheaper.
Mean Well power supplies are available in a wide range of power ratings. On the left is the “little one,” the 15 W RS-15-24; in the middle, the 600 W, 12 V SE-600-12; and on the right, the even more powerful S-1000-24, with 1000 W output. There’s also an externally identical S-1200-24 model, rated at 24 V and 50 A.
The list of power supplies could go on forever, but to wrap up, here are a couple of words about models that differ from those shown above.
First, the RD series, which has two output voltages. Examples include the 35 W RD-35A, with 5 + 12 V outputs, and the 65 W RD-65B, with 5 + 24 V outputs. These supplies are handy for external hard drive enclosures, as well as devices where, for example, the controller needs 5 V while the power section needs 24 V.
Even more interesting are power supplies with a UPS (Uninterruptible Power Supply) function. You connect a standard 12 or 24 V battery to these supplies, and the power supply monitors its charge and provides uninterrupted power to the load, such as a video surveillance system.
The AD series includes two models, the AD-55 and AD-155, rated at 55 and 155 W. The suffix indicates the voltage: A means 12 (13.8) V, and B means 24 (27.6) V. In addition, these power supplies have an output signal indicating that mains power has been lost.
I currently have a similar power supply running around the clock in my multi-channel battery tester, which is especially useful given the current state of the power supply.
To wrap up, here are the key points to consider when choosing a power supply.
Input voltage — under normal conditions, it doesn't matter. For areas with an unstable mains supply, it's better to choose a unit with a wide input range, though these are usually limited to 100–150 W.
Output voltage — depends on the application; it can often be adjusted slightly as well.
Output current — should be at least as high as required. It can be higher; that won't hurt the load.
Output power — it's best to allow a margin of around 20–30%, depending on the manufacturer, especially if the unit will be running at full load for extended periods.
Cooling — passive cooling is preferable, but power supplies of this type are usually limited in power and cost more. On the plus side, they have no moving parts and are much less prone to dust buildup.
Manufacturer — Mean Well is a good choice, but power supplies from other manufacturers, such as NVVV, Sanpu, and NeonPro, can work perfectly well too.
Choose your power supply carefully, because the reliable, long-term operation of your devices depends on it.
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0.17а или1.5ва в чем разница, 2.0а. или 2.5 а в чем разница, . 100-240 V AC 50/60Hz / 12 V DC 1,5A расшифровать, модель pa и adl различия внешний блок питания, какой лучше взять бло питания 120вт 240 или 1800 вт, Для некоторых компактных усилителей (как XH-A232) критически важно подобрать подходящий внешний блок питания (обычно DC 8–26 V). Это часто упускают из виду, Диапазон подстройки выходного напряжения источника питания, В какой лучше 22,5 - 27,0 или 21,6-29?, выходное напряжение, Напряжение питания: 220…230 В. Максимальный выходной ток: не менее 2А. Выходное напряжение: 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24В. Должна быть возможность выбора выходного напряжения., питание 9-30 и 9-16 в что лучше, питание DC 5B -10% 3,1 Вт что значит, dc 3-5v это значит, блок питания 12v 2а или 12v5a какой выбрать для массажной подушки, 5v-3a и 5v-2a, как различаются блоки питания для тв, 5v 2a и 5v 3а какая разница, в чем разница 5 в и 5 а выход тока, блок питания выходное напряжение указывается диапазоном или конкретным значением, какой блок сильнее при параметрах 100-240v - 50-60hz 0.3a или 100-240v 50-60hz 1.2a, какой блок питания нужен для электроножеточки, 100-240v 50-60hz 1.2 a 100-240v 50-60 hz 2a в чем отличие, 50hz 1,6 ампер и 50-60hz 2,5 ампер в чем отличия, для чего на блоках питания указывается разное выходное напряжения, в чем разница б/п 90вт от 65 вт, в чём разница между блоками питания на 20 ват, 35 ват и 45 ват
0.17а или1.5ва в чем разница, 2.0а. или 2.5 а в чем разница, . 100-240 V AC 50/60Hz / 12 V DC 1,5A расшифровать, модель pa и adl различия внешний блок питания, какой лучше взять бло питания 120вт 240 или 1800 вт, Для некоторых компактных усилителей (как XH-A232) критически важно подобрать подходящий внешний блок питания (обычно DC 8–26 V). Это часто упускают из виду, Диапазон подстройки выходного напряжения источника питания, В какой лучше 22,5 - 27,0 или 21,6-29?, выходное напряжение, Напряжение питания: 220…230 В. Максимальный выходной ток: не менее 2А. Выходное напряжение: 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24В. Должна быть возможность выбора выходного напряжения., питание 9-30 и 9-16 в что лучше, питание DC 5B -10% 3,1 Вт что значит, dc 3-5v это значит, блок питания 12v 2а или 12v5a какой выбрать для массажной подушки, 5v-3a и 5v-2a, как различаются блоки питания для тв, 5v 2a и 5v 3а какая разница, в чем разница 5 в и 5 а выход тока, блок питания выходное напряжение указывается диапазоном или конкретным значением, какой блок сильнее при параметрах 100-240v - 50-60hz 0.3a или 100-240v 50-60hz 1.2a, какой блок питания нужен для электроножеточки, 100-240v 50-60hz 1.2 a 100-240v 50-60 hz 2a в чем отличие, 50hz 1,6 ампер и 50-60hz 2,5 ампер в чем отличия, для чего на блоках питания указывается разное выходное напряжения, в чем разница б/п 90вт от 65 вт, в чём разница между блоками питания на 20 ват, 35 ват и 45 ват
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