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AMC7135 or the revival of a notorious flashlight.

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Not long ago, I posted a review of a small flashlight.
In that review, I described a problem with the flashlight: its driver was poorly designed and simply no good.
Read on to find out how I got around the problem. It won't be a long read, but I think it'll be useful.

So I decided to order some fairly popular LED current-regulator ICs (you could call them LED drivers), AMC7135. The IC comes in two versions: 300–340 mA and 340–380 mA.
The seller had the first version.

The seller shipped the order the next day, but it took more than 40 days to arrive :(
There won't be a photo of the envelope, since the order contained more than just this IC (there'll be more reviews).
There were several identical little bags inside the envelope, and the AMC7135s I ordered were in one of them.

AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.

There were 10 ICs in the order, and all 10 arrived.

AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.

There's not much to say about these ICs.
I'll just mention that the IC requires very few external components. It's a good idea to add a couple of ceramic capacitors to prevent the IC from oscillating, especially if there are long wires to the LED. The datasheet has all the information you need about this; I can explain if necessary.

And this is the flashlight we're going to modify. It had been sitting on my desk for ages, waiting for the ICs. Well, now they're here :)

AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.

Here's the notorious driver. It was probably fine originally when powered by a single 1.2 V rechargeable battery or an AA cell, but it's absolutely unsuitable for a lithium battery.

AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.

And here's what we'll need for the modification (well, a soldering iron, solder, and a steady hand too).

AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.

Next, I used a hot-air gun to remove everything from the driver board. I didn't throw the parts away; the old driver still had a small inductor and a Schottky diode, which might come in handy somewhere.

AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.

Then, with a soldering iron, some solder, and a couple of short wires, I put the whole thing together using the board's contact pads.
I don't think it's worth spelling out what goes where, since boards vary and the work needs to be done differently for each one.

AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.


AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.

Next, I used the handle of a screwdriver to press the board back into its original aluminum sleeve.

AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.

Hooray, it works :)
By the look of it, it's only a little dimmer. It doesn't get hot and works perfectly.

AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.

The regulated current is 330 mA, well within the specified range.

AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notorious flashlight.

At this point, I could have said, “Bingo! I did it. Everything’s great.”
But no, things were not great at all.
The photo below shows how many chips I ruined while modifying it.
Yes, I ended up using the fourth chip.

AMC7135, or the revival of a notoriously troublesome flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notoriously troublesome flashlight.

As I found out while working on it, these chips (I mean chips from this particular seller) are VERY sensitive to overheating during soldering.
First, I soldered in the first chip, but thought it was shorting the board (the board wasn’t designed for this chip), so I removed it with a hot-air gun and soldered it back in. When I powered it up, the LED barely flashed for a fraction of a second, then went out.
I thought I’d just got a bad chip. I soldered in the second one and checked it—it worked, but didn’t look properly soldered, so I warmed it up a little with the soldering iron. Turned it on, and it was dead.
I don’t remember what happened with the third one, but it joined the first two.
I soldered the fourth one like a bomb disposal expert. The result is in the photos above. Everything works.

I took photos of the underside of the chip. You can see that the thermal pad is slightly crooked, with bare copper showing.

AMC7135, or the revival of a notoriously troublesome flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notoriously troublesome flashlight.

From the top, though, it looks like a perfectly normal chip.

AMC7135, or the revival of a notoriously troublesome flashlight.AMC7135, or the revival of a notoriously troublesome flashlight.

Conclusion.
Well, what can I say? I did achieve the result I wanted—the flashlight works—but it cost me three burned-out chips. I think the chips were probably rejects, although I had no such problems with the other items in the order.
As you can imagine, I have plenty of soldering experience, and electronic components usually handle being removed with a hot-air gun and soldered back onto a board without any trouble. Well, most components do; we’ll leave out the unusual ones that are heat-sensitive or, conversely, designed to operate at 300 degrees.
But the flashlight shines really well now—I’d even say brilliantly. My family really likes it. Now I just need to get it a good battery.

All in all, I wouldn’t buy from this seller again. Better try someone else.
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The figures from this review are in the measurement database: Other devices


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Comments3

Comments are published in their original language.

  1. Артур
    25 September 2019 11:32#1
    Есть у меня такой фонарь. Поменял режимы с помощью другого драйвера (заказывал с Али). Теперь только 3 яркости, но можно выбирать - хоть 2 оставить, хоть строб и сос подключить.
    Самый малый режим очень полезен в полной темноте, например, в пещере. Глаза быстро привыкают и света хватает на о-о-очень долго.
    -1
  2. 1 December 2019 18:36#2
    kirich:
    ...микросхема существует в двух вариантах, 300-340мА и 340-380мА

    На Алишке сейчас - только AMC7135PKFT, надо так понимать это та, что на 340...380 мА.

    kirich:
    В общем я бы больше у этого продавца не покупал, лучше попробуйте у кого нибудь другого.

    Да, там и цена какая-то конская, с доставкой за 10 шт - ван доллар. Взял, на пробу тут. А, куда ж подевались с индексом "А", на 300-340 мА? Сейчас, в Украине в оффлайне тоженигде нет, по поиску выдаёт на "Вороне", но там в характеристиках - те же 350 мА....
    --------------------
    Не шалю, никого не трогаю, починяю примус ....
    0
    1. 7 December 2019 04:14#3
      По цене, меня устроило.
      Ну а так я недавно искал у нас микросхему 2S зарядного, оказалось что не так просто. Нашел в одном месте и что интересно, там была и ссылка на мой же обзор, скидку у них попросить что ли :)
      0

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