Repair and review of the Bluetti EB55 power station

A while ago, a friend asked me to help a relative of his repair a charging station. Since I wanted not only to help but also to see what was going on inside, I naturally said, “Send it over.” The station has now been repaired and inspected, and I have something to tell you about it. Since this is essentially two articles in one, it’s going to be fairly long.

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I don’t think I need to explain what was going on here last fall and winter, or why people started buying devices like these high-capacity charging stations.
By the way, for some reason, some review sites call them “power stations,” which is completely wrong. The correct name is “charging station”: a device capable of charging various devices. It has nothing to do with power stations.

Anyway, I digress.
So I picked up a relatively small but quite hefty box from the parcel locker (9 kg according to the shipping label). Inside, the station itself was neatly packed, along with the charger, power cable, and a chocolate bar. Special thanks for that — it was a very nice surprise :)


The manual, power supply, and cable were on top. It was only right at the end that I noticed the manual was for a solar panel, not the station.


The charger is rated at 204 W. As far as I understand, it really is a charger, not a power supply as stated on the label — I think you understand the difference.
The plug looks like the one used on Dell laptops, with the same center pin. There’s a fan on one side. I’ll get ahead of myself a little here: this fan is not only noisy, it also runs constantly whenever the charger is plugged into the mains. Whoever came up with the idea of not adding temperature control for this fan should be made to sit next to it for at least half a day.
The charger is fairly large and quite heavy, too. It’s strange that they gave it active cooling, since laptop power supplies with comparable power ratings usually don’t have it.


The charging station isn’t exactly old — it’s only a little over six months old — but it isn’t new either, so there are naturally a few minor signs of use.
My first impression when I picked it up was: heavy. According to the specs, it weighs 7.5 kg.


On the front, we have:
1. Charging inputs for the station, covered by a rubber cap
2. One USB-C port
3. Four USB-A ports
4. Display
5. A pair of standard 230 V outlets
6. A pair of 5525 (if I’m not mistaken) 12 V outputs
7. One “cigarette lighter” output
8. Three buttons for turning the corresponding output groups on and off.



There’s a carrying handle on top, along with a wireless charging pad. I didn’t test it, since I don’t have any devices like that at home.


1, 2. A pair of ventilation grilles on the left and right.
3, 4. An LED panel on the back, with a couple of brightness settings plus a flashing mode. It gives off decent light, with moderate brightness that doesn’t dazzle you and illuminates the area quite well.
5, 6. Rubber feet on the bottom, with the screws holding the two halves of the case underneath. There’s also a label with the basic specs. It says the charging current can be up to 10 A, which is further confirmation that the included unit is a charger, not an 8 A power supply.


1. On the left, under a rubber cap, is the solar panel input. Unusually, it’s a standard XT60 connector rather than a dedicated one. The mains charger input is to the right.
2.. On the right are the “cigarette lighter” socket and a pair of DC5525 sockets. Though I’m not sure — they might be DC5521. The point is that these connectors aren’t entirely safe: it’s very easy to short them with some conductive object.


It also has a large display, though in my opinion it doesn’t show all that much useful information.
First, there’s the battery percentage indicator. Yes, it’s nicely done, with an animation, but those 20% increments... Why not use a regular three-digit, seven-segment display? I don’t understand. Even ordinary power banks do this better.
Second, it shows the total output power. If they were going to do that, they could have shown the power for each group separately — USB/DC/AC — as well as the total.
Third, the display has colored icons made by adding a color filter, which makes them look dimmer. But now I’m just nitpicking.


Now, about the fault. I actually told my friend right away what I thought the problem was, but a guess is one thing and a diagnosis is another.

As you could see above, the battery indicator is empty, so we connect the charger.
Charging starts. We see the power reading go 208-155-105-000, and the time from connecting the charger to charging stopping is literally 20 seconds. At the same time charging stops, the battery error indicator lights up.


I connect a lamp to the 230 V output. It lights up, and the indicator shows the load power and a battery error.


I immediately check the USB outputs.
1. The USB-C output shows the usual list of supported protocols, so I don't really have any questions here.
2, 3. But the USB-A outputs are pretty basic: 5 V max, no QC. A bit disappointing.


Here I wanted to test the USB-C output under load, but apparently it didn't like my power bank as a load. It starts charging at 90-95 W, then stops after about ten seconds. At first I thought it was because the power bank was fully charged, so I tried another one at 95% charge, but the same thing happened. Charging starts, and the power bank shows both that it's charging and the PD indicator. Then the PD indicator goes out and charging stops.
In this case, I suspect some kind of incompatibility, since the reported fault has nothing to do with it shutting down in this mode.


A couple of words about the power station's dimensions while we're at it. From the very beginning, I was surprised not only by its weight but also by its size. The station's battery capacity is rated at 537 Wh. The two power banks on the right have a combined battery capacity of about 570 Wh. Compare their sizes.
Sure, the station has more outputs and a 230 V output, but even if we put a regular 700 W inverter on the right, we still wouldn't get the same volume.


To take it apart, first remove the side covers. They're held on with screws, not self-tapping screws, which is a plus.


Now the battery and... two fans are visible on the left and right. Well, I'd seen one fan through the grille, but after removing the side covers, it turned out there were two. On the one hand, that's good, but does a station this size really need two? Still, this setup should be more reliable.


Unscrew the four screws under the rubber feet and remove the top of the case.


Another point for the designers: all the connections use detachable connectors, so the station is quite repairable.
Wireless charging module.


The inside is laid out very spaciously, with lots of empty space. The heatsinks are positioned in the fans' airflow.
The station consists of five boards in total:
1. 230 V inverter
2. Control and low-voltage converters
3. Battery protection board
4. Wireless charger
5. MPPT module.


More diagnostics.
1. I connect a power supply and an electronic load as the load. It's noisy, but at least it doesn't shine in your eyes like incandescent bulbs.
2. The error indicator stays on, but the station keeps working. I run it like this for about an hour and a half.
3-6. I connect the charger and charging starts. This time it lasts noticeably longer. While it's charging, I try disconnecting the charger, and the display starts showing the charge percentage.

Conclusion: the first shutdown was triggered by the protection board because the battery was out of balance. Since this was a protective shutdown rather than a normal one, the station reported an error.
It also becomes clear that the indicator estimates capacity based on the charge level. In other words, for it to work correctly, you first need to fully discharge the station and then fully charge it. Here, I discharged it by about 75-80%, and before the protection kicked in, the display showed 60-80%.

That is, The station is essentially fully functional, but there’s a problem: at the end of charging, it shuts down abnormally rather than normally. This also means the charge indicator doesn’t work, and the available capacity may be reduced.



I ran the station with the top of the case removed and monitored the temperature of various components along the way. I had to cover the heatsinks with electrical tape to get accurate temperature readings.
The load was about one-third of the maximum. The fans came on very rarely and only for a short time. The first time was after about half an hour of operation, and they ran for literally one minute. They’re quiet, by the way.
The hottest components were the inverter transformer and the output inductor.


During the subsequent charging, only the input connector got hot. I didn’t like it much from the start: the plug went in a little too easily. Maybe it was like that originally, or maybe it had loosened up, but either way, I don’t have a replacement connector like this :(
On the plus side, I found something interesting. After running for a while, the station turns off the display, and you have to briefly press any button to turn it back on. At one point I accidentally switched on the 230 V inverter. There was no load connected, and I only noticed it was running when I checked the temperature of the output inductor: it had warmed up almost as much as it does under load.
That surprised me a bit. I can’t say I have a lot of experience with inverters like this, but I’d always assumed the output inductor would run cooler with no load.


The preliminary test results are clear, so it’s time for a more in-depth diagnosis.
Remove the plastic battery holder frame to access the battery.


The bottom half of the case is a cell holder, and it’s quite thoughtfully designed.


The battery itself is a rigid assembly that comes out as a single module. I really like that. I should also point out that there’s a generous safety gap between the cells.


The cells are ITR26/70-40E, LiFePO4, rated at 3.2 V and 4000 mAh/12.8 Wh. There are 42 cells in a 7S6P configuration.
The battery was manufactured on August 15, 2022.


I looked up information on these cells and almost immediately came across a cell test of the same size, 26700, but in a different wrapper. It turned out I’d tested one of these cells more than a year ago: review.


A couple more words about the battery. The construction is quite interesting. Judging by what I saw, it was assembled like this:
1. Insulating discs were stuck onto the positive terminals of the cells (they’re not visible, but I assume they’re there).
2. The cells were placed in a frame to hold them in position.
3. The cells were spot-welded together with specially shaped strips.
4. A thin layer of foam, cut to the shape of the battery, was stuck on top.
5. A stamped fiberglass frame was added for extra protection.

The result is a single rigid module with protection against damage and cushioning from the foam pad.


The BMS board connects to the inverter board via a pair of heavy-gauge wires with an XT90 connector, plus a small 4-wire connector. Note that the extra connector is not for balancing: it carries ground, the total pack voltage, and apparently two data lines. I’d guess it’s an I2C bus.


The board is coated with conformal coating, so unfortunately I can’t provide the component markings.
1. BMS and balancing chip. Though it’s hard to call it a balancer when the balancing current is just 35 mA and the charging current is 8 A. No wonder the battery became unbalanced. On the right are three 30 A fuses connected in parallel.
2. BMS power stage. The five current-sense shunts here have a combined resistance of 1 mΩ.

Aside from the underpowered balancer, the BMS board is well made, with a decent safety margin.


Let’s check the cell voltages. I didn’t bother putting them in a table, especially since we really only need to look at and compare two or three of the seven groups.
Here are the total voltage and the voltage of each group, starting with the one at the bottom of the battery.
Overall, things look pretty good, but the fifth group—and especially the seventh—clearly stand out.


For an experiment, I connected an active balancer. First one balancing LED lit up, then another. Just half an hour later, both LEDs went out, meaning the board thinks everything is OK. In practice, balancing LiFePO4 cells is very inconvenient because of the shape of their charge and discharge curves. I talked about this and showed it once. Ideally, a balancer like this should always be connected.



In my opinion, it’s not exactly good now, but it’s noticeably better.


The seventh group was really bothering me, because there were two possible explanations:
1. The battery was simply out of balance
2. One cell in the group had failed.

Since I have test results for these cells, let’s test it another way.


I connected a battery tester to this group, fully charged it, and then fully discharged it at 12 A, which is 0.5C.
According to the graph above, a cell delivers 3867 mAh or 12.5 Wh under these conditions. When I tested the group, I got 23.77 Ah or 74.10 Wh.
Let’s do the math.
3867 × 6 = 23.2 Ah; we got 23.77 Ah.
12.5 × 6 = 75 Wh; we got 74.1 Wh.
In the first case, the pack’s capacity is higher because the battery warmed up slightly during the test. In the second, it’s lower because of an incorrect connection; it was very inconvenient to separate the load and measurement lines.

In any case, the calculated and measured capacities match perfectly, so the group is fully functional. By the way, I also got the battery’s actual capacity at 0.5C: 74.1 × 7 = 517.7 Wh. At 0.2C, I think it will deliver its rated 537 Wh.


Next, I ran a full balancing cycle. First, I “took” about 2 Ah out of the battery, let it rest, and then charged each group in turn using these settings:
Charge termination voltage: 3.65 V; charge cutoff current: 300 mA (calculated as 50 mA × 6 cells).

For the first six groups (I tested the seventh, so its results would be inaccurate), the following amounts of charge were needed to top them back up:
1984
2171
1958
2093
1958
2113

The maximum difference was 213 mAh, which is pretty good.

After charging, I left the battery unloaded for about 3 hours, then measured the voltage across the groups and... was surprised.
Yes, I’d expected the spread to be smaller.


But knowing the characteristic behavior of LiFePO4 cells, it’s too early to be disappointed. I removed some charge (about 2 Ah) using an electronic load and measured again.
That’s better: the maximum imbalance was 1.9 mV, though the seventh group still has a higher voltage than the others.

That should do it for balancing.



There’ll be another repair step—or, more precisely, a check—but first I’ll show you how the power station is assembled, its features, and a bit of its circuitry.


As I’ve already mentioned, all the connections use connectors, and I really appreciate that. The power station is fairly easy to take apart, and if you want, you can test its internals right on the bench.


I’ll start with the low-voltage board. It has all the converters, the MPPT charger, and the control unit.


The power station is controlled by some kind of ARM32 processor. I can’t even figure out how it handles such complex tasks as switching three groups of converters on and off and displaying the charge level. I thought we’d already moved on to 64-bit processors...


1. LED panel controller. I’d guess it’s the ancient PT4115; I published a review of it about 9 years ago.
2. DC-DC converter, probably for the cigarette lighter socket, though I’m not sure. On the other hand, there don’t seem to be any other loads nearby.
3. Common-mode chokes appear all over the board. I think they’re fitted on every output, both low-voltage and mains.
4. Controller and EEPROM


USB port section.


1. The USB-A outputs also have common-mode chokes, but the ports are powered directly from the 5 V buck converter. The data lines do have controllers, though, which is good and proper. I once showed a board with similar ones, but that had something like a TPS251xx. Here, it’s clearly some Chinese single-port chip. Thanks to these controllers, your phone or tablet will charge at a normal current even at 5 V, rather than the standard 0.5 A.
2. MPPT charge controller board.


The MPPT controller is built around the SC8802 chip. It’s a sort of equivalent to the LTC3780, but as I understand it, unlike the LTC3780, it’s bidirectional, meaning it can work in both directions.


This is most likely the charge control section, but judging by the lack of large inductors nearby, it simply switches the power and protects against overloads.


There are just as many components on the other side. I’d rate the complexity as high, although, strictly speaking, everything here is divided into essentially independent sections. Together, though, it looks like a jumble of transistors, inductors, and chips.



The USB connector section on the other side.


The controllers for the two converters are located here.
1. The SW3518 is a step-down PWM controller with a built-in 100 W PD protocol controller. I reviewed a board based on this chip here. Since the battery voltage is always above 20 V, there’s no need for a universal controller, so the designers went with a step-down one.
2. To the right is the SC8001 chip. Judging by the large inductor on the other side of the board, it’s responsible for the 12 V output. But then I have no idea what the DC-DC converter next to the cigarette lighter socket is for.


1. The section next to the charging inputs. You can see a fuse on the left; there are quite a few of these on the board, so be careful when repairing it.
2. The 12 V output section.


And here’s the part I was most interested in: the 230 V inverter.


The low-voltage side has two PDP8974 transistors, rated for 80 V with an on-resistance of 3.9 mΩ. I was surprised to see just two transistors in a 700 W inverter. Yes, the voltage here is almost twice the battery’s 12 V, but the current is still substantial, not to mention the switching losses.
Even more surprising was seeing an ancient SG3525 used as the PWM controller. It seems to be marked EG3525 here, but it’s essentially the same thing.
Of course, there’s a driver on the output rather than the more familiar emitter follower, but still. Given the modern ARM32, I expected to see something more up to date—not an SG3525.

By the way, all the boards are coated with a pretty good conformal coating. It’s hard to remove, so I only scraped it off these chips. I didn’t bother with the rest, since there wasn’t much point, and some of the markings were visible through the coating anyway. Still, the protective coating gets a thumbs-up.


The high-voltage side is nothing new either. The only thing worth noting is that they used diodes with a decent power rating and mounted them on a shared heatsink. I’d probably have done the same.
The sine-wave generator is a standard EG3010, followed by a pair of drivers and 20N60 transistors—the classic setup, basically.



Everything else is on the other side of the heatsink. The transformer is relatively large, with an E 42/21/20 core. According to the EPCOS datasheet, using N87 ferrite at 100 kHz, it’s rated for 1290 W. The frequency here is of course lower—I’d guess the usual 40–50 kHz—but there’s forced-air cooling too.
The components are laid out with plenty of space between them, which improves cooling and increases reliability.



1. The battery power connector is an XT90. The current-sense shunt is on the left; unfortunately, its rating isn’t visible anywhere in the photo. I didn’t notice when I took it, but as far as I remember, judging by the marking and the expected current, it’s 0.5 mΩ.
The input capacitors are 3 × 2200 µF. All the electrolytic capacitors on the boards are made by Samxon, which is pretty good, all things considered.
2. The bridge rectifier is connected to the transformer through a 0.18 µF, 630 V capacitor. There’s a “KRENka” nearby, which I assume powers the EG3010.
3. As usual, there’s a capacitor and an inductor on the output, but there are a couple of oddities. First, the capacitor is only 47 µF. Second, for some reason the inductor is wound on a blue toroid. I’m more used to seeing black toroids, which means the core material is different.
The inductor measures 1.35 mH.
4. The output capacitor is 2.2 µF, 250 V. There’s also a common-mode choke on the output, and another one between the bridge rectifier and the filter capacitor.


The underside is almost empty, apart from a few odds and ends like high-voltage dividers and other small components.


And here’s what caused the whitish marks on the plastic case and circuit board. One SMD capacitor appears to have failed. But since the currents here are quite high, it simply burst, vaporizing part of the copper pour in the process.
I desoldered the capacitor, washed the board and coated it with lacquer. I don't see any point in installing a new one, especially since I don't have a suitable replacement, and ordering a single capacitor would take a long time and cost too much.


That's it for the inspection of the power station's internals. Let's move on to the charger.
The case is easy to open, since it's held together with screws rather than clips.


It's quite complex inside, though I expected that. The label alone made it clear that it had an active power factor correction circuit.


The input filter is fully equipped: you can see a pair of common-mode chokes, X capacitors, a thermistor, and what looks like a varistor showing through somewhere under the sealant.
To the right is the power factor correction choke. The heatsink carries the input bridge rectifier, the PFC transistor and diode, as well as the inverter's output transistors.


1. The output transistors are 16N65, which seems like plenty of headroom given the circuit design.
2. The filter capacitor is 180 µF, 450 V. Judging by the manufacturer, the chargers are made at the same factory as the power station itself.


1. The circuit design is very typical: a standard half-bridge with an output choke.
2. There's a relay on the output, which confirms once again that this is a charger—and that it disconnects the output when charging is complete.


A relatively large transformer, with a small one next to it for driving the inverter transistors. On the right are a pair of capacitors that form the midpoint, with a choke nearby. I couldn't figure out what that choke does here; it's clearly not the PFC choke. I'd have had to draw out the circuit to find out.


Almost all the smaller components are on the underside. There are three sections here: the PFC, the inverter, and the output charge controller.
Honestly, when I flipped the board over, after inspecting the power station I expected to find a TL494 here :) But no, it's clearly something newer. Everything is coated in lacquer too, so the markings are impossible to read.


I'm putting the power station back together and moving on to the final tests. The battery has two connectors: I disconnected the power connector first and reconnected it last.



First, the power station needs to be fully charged.
Everything went smoothly. When I connected the charger cable, its red LED came on first, then turned green when charging was complete. The power station showed no errors.


Now, to make the indicator show the correct charge level, the power station needs to be fully discharged and charged again.
1. First, I connected a power supply with an electronic load as the load, but set the power a little higher.
2. Since the power station hadn't been fully discharged before its initial charge, after about 400 Wh the indicator was empty and a battery error icon appeared. That's normal: the station calibrates during charging and had estimated the battery capacity to be lower.
3. But everything kept working normally. Near the end of the discharge, I replaced the power supply with a regular lamp and monitored the battery voltage as well.
4. Just before the low-voltage cutoff, the multimeter read about 20.1 V, or 2.87 V per cell. Given the discharge curve, I can say that the power station uses almost 100% of the battery capacity, which is perfectly reasonable.


I monitored the temperatures again during discharge, but this time I took more photos.
1. Load parameters.
2. Overall view
3. Output transformer
4. Low-voltage inverter transistors
5. The four high-voltage rectifier diodes are on the left
6. High-voltage inverter transistors; you can see they're hotter than the diodes.


Now the battery needs to be fully charged.
1. Since the battery is discharged and the current is regulated, charging power is below 200–208 W. That's perfectly normal.
2. As the battery charged, power rose to 208 W, then started to drop near the very end, after which charging stopped.
3. Then charging started again, but power was about 100 W. After 9–10 seconds, power dropped almost to zero again and charging stopped.
4. Apparently, the drop in voltage caused charging to restart periodically, but only for short periods. The pauses grew longer: first 2–3 minutes, then 5–6, and eventually about 20.
The photo shows the full range of battery voltage fluctuations, from the start of charging to the cutoff threshold.

In principle, this behavior is normal, and it should also help balance the battery. That is, Charging started and topped up all the cells, then stopped. But the balancer only discharges the cells with the highest voltage. Then the cycle repeats, gradually bringing the “lagging” cells up to the ones with higher voltage. I wouldn’t abuse this mode, though; half an hour to an hour is more than enough.



Finally, I checked the cell voltages after letting the battery sit for a while without charging. Since I couldn’t reach all the terminals, here are the readings in abbreviated form.
The battery’s total voltage was 23.438 V.
1. First cell in the pack
2. Second and third together.
3. Fourth and fifth together
4. Sixth and seventh together.

Once again, the sixth or seventh cell is slightly ahead, but overall the results are good; the spread seems minimal to me. An active balancer would certainly be nice, but I’d only consider one if this happens again.


That’s the repair done. All that’s left is to put the top half of the case back on. The station shows a full battery, there are no errors, and everything works. How long it’ll last, I have no idea. Batteries are a law unto themselves; I’ve done all I can.


A couple of words about how Nova Poshta works, or more specifically, deliveries via parcel lockers.
The station was sent from a branch to a parcel locker and arrived without any problems. We went for a walk in the evening, and I picked it up on the way back. After the repair, naturally, I wanted to send it back the same way. It’s convenient, right?
I set up the shipment in the app. The box measures 27x31x36 cm, its actual weight is 9 kg and its volumetric weight is 7.5 kg, so I select the largest size offered by the app.
But not so fast: it turns out the app also defaults to a 20 kg weight limit, while the recipient’s branch only accepts parcels up to 10 kg.
All right, I call tech support and explain the problem. They ask me to send a screenshot and suggest either choosing another branch or sending it from a branch.
I ask the recipient to choose a branch that accepts parcels over 20 kg. They choose one with a 30 kg limit. I try to set up the shipment, but now it says the dimensions don’t fit.

So we have a paradox: I can receive the parcel, but I can’t send that same parcel through the same locker to the same branch for the same person.
In the end, tech support called me back and said their technicians recommended choosing the medium size. The parcel would fit, they said, even though the app’s information said it wouldn’t. I did as they suggested and chose the option for up to 10 kg. The parcel fit, made it to the recipient, and has already been picked up.


And of course, the most important part: the conclusions. I bet plenty of you skimmed the article and jumped straight here :)

First, a few words about the repair itself. Unfortunately, working on a battery is usually easier in some ways and harder in others. It’s easier because balancing is often all that’s needed, so the material costs are minimal. It’s harder because the processes are slow. Put simply, the speed of an inverter repair is limited by the technician, while battery work is limited by how fast it can charge and discharge. No matter how much you’d like to, you can’t speed that up. Sure, you can use an impedance meter for diagnostics and simply compare the readings across all the groups; if one is noticeably higher, that’s probably where the problem is. But you’ll still have to bring every group to the same value, then fully discharge and recharge the entire battery, and check everything again. Unfortunately, replacing a few transistors and a driver is often much quicker.

Now, about the station itself.
Overall, I liked it. It’s built quite well, the assembly is neat and spacious, the boards are coated with protective varnish, and the components are easy to access, which makes repairs easier for technicians.
The main sections use well-known chips, so if one fails, finding a replacement should be easier. The only part that could really cause trouble is the processor, but there’s not much you can do about that.
The LiFePO4 battery is a mixed bag: it’s safer, which is good, but its weight/volume/capacity ratio is worse than that of “regular” lithium cells. LiFePO4 also has a distinctive charge-discharge curve, so it needs a more powerful balancer. Otherwise, we end up with the problem we’ve just seen.

What I didn’t like as much: the layout is very spacious. I think the case could have been made considerably smaller, which matters for a portable device. Also, the external charger looks a little odd given all the unused space inside. Speaking of the charger, it could definitely use fan control. Why they didn’t include it is a complete mystery.
As I mentioned above, the battery needing to be balanced less than a year later isn’t a good sign either.
And given the overall build quality, the components used, and so on, I was disappointed not to see anything new at all. It’s all built “by the book,” practically out of off-the-shelf modules. Where’s the creative thinking, the engineering ingenuity, the dual-purpose circuitry?
Speaking of dual-purpose designs, as far as I remember, this company makes a charging station where not only is the charger built in, but the inverter is reversible too, meaning it can work in both directions. I haven’t had one in my hands, though, so I can’t vouch for that; this is secondhand information.

To sum up the station itself briefly. I liked it, but there’s room for improvement. It didn’t interest me as an engineer, although I definitely added some useful information to my knowledge base.

Of course, someone will say, “What’s there to repair? It’s all pretty straightforward.” I agree, but there’s a catch: practically all charging stations are susceptible to this kind of problem—or at least I think most of them are. Besides, the information in this review might help someone in another situation too, for example, when restoring the rating of a burned-out component. That’s why there are so many photos, and even more are still in the original files.