A pair of 1080P AHD cameras from KKmoon

I ordered two video cameras with the same resolution but one significant difference: they have different lenses. I’d classify both cameras as budget models.
The second option costs more because it has a varifocal lens, which I’ll cover in more detail.

The differences between the cameras start with the packaging, both in size and design. The camera with the varifocal lens is larger, so its packaging is larger too.



I’ll start with the basic model, the S1304-N.
The camera comes with a very basic set of accessories: the camera itself, mounting hardware, a small hex key, and a manual.
That’s right, there’s no power supply included. So this review will be a little shorter than usual, since there’s less to take apart and show.


Here are the key specifications:
Sensor: 1/3" CMOS Sensor
Resolution: 1080P
Pixel count: 1920*1080
Lens focal length: 3.6mm
Illumination: 36pcs infrared lamps
Video transmission standard: AHD

The manual lists the rest of the specifications.


Compared with the previous cameras, this one has a slightly different housing. Its cross-section is roughly square.
The front is protected by a shipping film.


There’s also a plastic insert at the front. It’s transparent to the IR LEDs, but looks black in normal light. Only the lens and light sensor protrude from the front.


There’s a sticker on the bottom showing the model and color system. Look closely and you’ll see the mistake I made when ordering the cameras: the system is NTSC, not PAL.
Maybe I missed it, or maybe the link switched to the NTSC version while I was talking to the sales rep.
The camera is available in two versions, which you can choose when ordering. But even if you accidentally pick the wrong system, don’t worry: it’s a software setting, and near the end of the review I’ll explain how to change it.
The bracket, mounting system, and connectors are the same as on the other cameras. I can only say that the mount is secure; no complaints there.


To get inside, you first have to remove the front section. In my opinion, this design choice is questionable. The insert fits very tightly, but it’s held in place by friction alone. The camera will work exactly the same without it, but I’d add some adhesive to secure it.


The camera housing is made of some kind of aluminum alloy and consists of two parts: the “cup” and the front section, which holds the camera module.
The front section is secured with four screws. During disassembly, I found that one of them had been cross-threaded, so I ended up having to break it off. You can see in the photo that one screw is shorter.
A rubber gasket sits between the front and main sections of the housing to protect against moisture.


The cable isn’t glued in place; it’s held securely by a small sleeve. Once again, I’m left wondering why they make the housings so large when about 70% of the space ends up empty. When I took apart the Hikvision cameras, their internals filled almost the entire housing, but here...


The front section with the camera and illumination modules.


Undo four small screws and you can see all the electronics stacked together.


The IR illumination board is the most basic design, commonly found in inexpensive cameras. The camera in my previous review had a better-designed module, but that’s more the exception than the rule. The LEDs are standard 5mm types. Their operation isn’t very noticeable, partly because of the light filter.


Since I’m not particularly interested in the illumination, I’ll set it aside and move on to the main part: the camera.
It uses the familiar module, consisting of an electronics board and a lens with an IR-cut filter mechanism.


I’d never paid much attention to lenses before—glass is glass. But for some reason, I noticed that the front lens element here is concave rather than convex, as usual. I always thought the front lens on ordinary camera lenses was convex, but I could be wrong, since this is the first time I've noticed one like this.


The camera is built around the well-known FH8536E chip, the same chip used in the cameras from my previous review. It supports resolutions up to 1920x1080 and can further process the signal from the image sensor.


Since its power consumption is noticeably lower than that of IP cameras, it doesn't need an additional heatsink.
The camera board also has protective TVS diodes on the power and video output lines to protect the processor from damage.


The shutter mechanism and lens are held in place by a pair of screws. They come off fairly easily, but I don't recommend taking them apart. It's quite easy to damage or get dirt on the image sensor during disassembly, which certainly won't do it any good.


This side of the board usually holds the auxiliary voltage regulators, an EEPROM chip for storing the processor firmware, and the driver that controls the IR filter shutter.


And, of course, the image sensor. Its appearance reminded me of the sensors in the cameras from a cheap AHD kit I reviewed in March.


In this case, though, the sensor is larger: 1/3 inch rather than 1/4 inch. Sensor size affects light sensitivity and the amount of image noise.
But keep in mind that as camera resolution increases, each pixel gets smaller. In any case, when choosing a camera, you should look not only at its resolution but also at the sensor size. A size of 1/2.8–1/3 inch is normal; cheap cameras can easily have a 1/4-inch sensor, which is worse. More expensive cameras have larger sensors. For example, Hikvision's new 8 MP camera DS-2CD2085FWD-I has a 1/2.5-inch sensor.


That's it for the external look at the first camera; let's move on to the second one.

The camera model is KKmoon TP-W200WT, link to the product in the store. It costs $39.43, or about $10 less with a coupon.

The package is much the same as the previous one; even this camera is packed in "air".


There are a few differences, though. For example, the manual is more substantial, although it still doesn't say much of use. They also included a drilling template for the mounting holes, and the foam rubber gasket now comes separately instead of being stuck to the base.


A few technical specifications.
Sensor: 1/3" for Sony CMOS Sensor
Resolution: 1080P
Lens: 2.8~12mm manual zoom
IR illumination: 42pcs infrared lamps
Minimum illumination: Day (0.1Lux), Night 0.001Lux (with IR illumination)
S/N Ratio:?52dB


The camera housing is clearly larger than the previous one, and its design is noticeably different too.


From the outside, the front of the camera looks like any other, although it's noticeably larger. Both the lens and the illumination board are bigger, so the proportions remain the same as on the previous cameras.


Since the camera has a varifocal lens, there are two adjustment screws on the bottom.
Camera designs vary. On cameras like this, the adjustments are accessible from the outside, but if the camera is installed inside a protective housing, they'll be inside too.
The two screws adjust focus (left) and focal length (right).
Otherwise, the camera's design is almost identical to the previous one, except that the rubber pad for the mounting foot comes separately instead of being attached from the start.


The top sunshield is removable and held by a single small screw. At first glance, it's not clear why they included it at all. But once you remove it, you can see that the front section unscrews as a whole, and making the sunshield part of it would have been a little more complicated.
Personally, though, I think the manufacturer should have put more thought into the shape of the housing and made the sunshield part of it rather than a separate cover.


There was a warranty sticker on the bottom of the camera. It doesn't make much sense, since this is an outdoor camera and the sticker will get ruined in the rain anyway.
All right, let's unscrew the front section and take out the glass.
As expected, the glass is divided into two sections and has a silicone seal around the perimeter. The seal is made very neatly, giving the impression that it is one piece with the glass.


Remove the three screws and take out the camera module.


The module comes out very easily, but putting it back is much harder.
Inside the housing, you can see the flat parts of the adjustment mechanism. It all seems logical: line them up, do the same on the camera module, and insert it. But I can tell you, that only works in theory :)


Because of the lens design, the camera module is considerably larger than those I reviewed earlier.


The adjustment mechanism's slots are on the bottom. Adjusting lenses like these is relatively straightforward in itself, as long as you account for a few quirks.
1. Play when rotation is transferred from the outer metal parts to the inner plastic parts.
2. Play in the gear pair that drives the lens adjustment screws.
3. Possible play in the lens mechanism itself.

The fact that this is an AHD camera both simplifies and complicates things a little.
It simplifies things because AHD cameras have an almost instantaneous response when used with a DVR.
It complicates things because you need a DVR for this camera; you can't send the image straight to a TV or tablet.

Some camera manufacturers (Hikvision, for example) offer software that makes setup easier. But I almost always use cameras with fixed lenses, so I can't comment on how convenient it is. When I do use it, I find it easier to work from the image.


The only difference in the IR illumination compared with other budget cameras is the number of LEDs: 42 instead of 36. In real-world use, though, that makes practically no difference.


This camera is also built around the FH8536E. The only apparent difference is an unidentified IC in the upper-left corner of the board.


Let's remove the lens. On the left, you can see the mechanism that moves the lens adjustment screws. The design is pretty basic, of course. It works, but I wouldn't recommend applying too much force when adjusting it.


As with the previous camera, this one has power regulators, an EEPROM, and a driver for the IR-cut filter.


The specs say the image sensor is made by Sony. I won't dispute or vouch for that; I'll leave it to the manufacturer's conscience, since there's no marking anywhere.


The sensor's physical dimensions match those of the previous camera. Interestingly, they also match the sensor in the Cotier cameras from the previous review, even though those were listed as 1/2.8 inch, which is larger than 1/3 inch.


At the very beginning of the review, I mentioned that I accidentally ordered NTSC cameras instead of PAL, as I had originally planned.
For the most part, it doesn't matter to the DVR, but there's one catch: most inexpensive DVRs can work with both formats, but not at the same time.
That is, you can select one signal format for the entire system in the settings. More expensive systems let you choose the video standard separately for each channel.

Anyway, I first tested them in NTSC mode, and everything worked. But since I already had some PAL cameras, I wanted to switch these to the same standard too.

If you accidentally ordered the wrong cameras, and they also use the FH8536E chip, the problem is easy to fix.
Set the DVR to NTSC (so you can see what you're changing), then switch the cameras to PAL. When the image disappears again, switch the DVR back to its original mode (PAL).

To open the menu, use the connector on the camera board for the control buttons (or joystick). It may be marked G, D, U, M, R, L.


It may also be unmarked, but it's easy to identify: six contacts with a row of small resistors next to them. The photo shows the second camera.


According to the processor datasheet, these are the camera control buttons:
G - GND
D - Down
U - Up
M - Menu
R - Right
L - Left

To activate a button, connect pin G to the corresponding pin: D, U, M, R, or L.

If you want, you can also control it with a single wire, since the control signals are actually different voltage levels. The camera board already has the divider resistors installed (the row of resistors next to the connector), but you can move them all outside the camera using a single wire for each one (the common wire is already brought out).
In this case, connect the keypad to the RIGHT pin, then use resistors with the specified values minus 1.5 kΩ. For example, use 2.8 kΩ instead of 4.3 kΩ.


Pressing the Menu button takes you to the main control menu, where you can select the camera's operating mode.
I'll list the top-level options below. For now, I'll just mention that you can switch the menu to Russian (though the translation is pretty rough) or reset the settings. To save your settings, select Save-exit; to simply leave the menu, select Exit.


The first four options are image settings. Here's what they do.
1. Exposure. You can choose how brightness is measured: across the whole frame (Globe) or in the center (Center). You can also configure BLC (backlight compensation) and FLC (flicker reduction for fluorescent lighting).
2. White balance. There are two modes to choose from: automatic and manual. In manual mode, you can adjust the color temperature toward cooler or warmer tones.
3. Day/night control. Automatic, triggered by an external sensor (the mode used here), or forced (sometimes necessary).
4. Video settings. This section has quite a few more options.
Contrast, sharpness and saturation should be self-explanatory.
DNR[/b] - Noise reduction system with an adjustable level.
Transfer mode - output signal type: AHD, CVBS (composite analog signal), TVI or CVI. For obvious reasons, I didn't test the last two modes.
Image size - resolution: 720p or 1080p.
Format - PAL or NTSC standard. I changed this setting on my cameras.
DWDR - extended dynamic range, used in high-contrast scenes.


Later, I found a description of all the modes supported by this processor. I'll include it as a screenshot.
Note that you can switch the video output format without digging through the menus; the option is highlighted at the top.


As you've probably noticed, the text is full of abbreviations and acronyms that may not be familiar. This short glossary should help, but since it isn't all that short, I'll tuck it under a spoiler.


All right, that covers the menu. Now let me move on to a question I sometimes get in private messages: lens types.
First, there are three types of lenses used in surveillance cameras:
1. Fixed lens — has a set focal length and the lowest price.
2. Varifocal lens — the focal length can be adjusted, effectively “zooming in” on or “zooming out” from objects in the frame. Focus is adjusted manually, and the price is mid-range.
3. Motorized zoom lens — similar to a varifocal lens, but motorized (though it can also be manual), meaning the adjustment is done with a motor. The key difference is that its mechanism is designed to focus automatically—or, more precisely, it is preset, so no further adjustments are needed during use. Naturally, the more complex mechanism makes it more expensive than the first two options.

Focal length determines the camera’s field of view. Lenses with a short focal length and, accordingly, a wide field of view are used in small rooms. This lets you fit more of the room into the frame.
Different types of lenses are used outdoors and in large rooms: wide-angle lenses for general coverage, and narrow-angle lenses for monitoring specific areas.
Here’s an example showing how the image in the frame looks with different lenses. In every case, the example uses a camera with a 1/3-inch sensor, like the one in the review.


I mentioned above that sensor size affects a camera’s sensitivity to light, but it also affects the field of view. The larger the sensor, the more you’ll see on the monitor. Also, keep in mind that a lens designed for a large sensor can be installed on a camera with a smaller sensor; the camera will simply “see” a little less. But it won’t work the other way around: the image will only appear in the center.
That said, most cameras are now sold with a lens already installed, and inexpensive fixed lenses work fine with inexpensive cameras.


Fixed lenses show up in my reviews quite often, so I don’t think they need an introduction. Let’s move on to varifocal lenses.
The second camera has this type of lens installed. It has two adjustments: focal length and focus.
There can also be a third adjustment for the aperture. Some lenses have an auto iris (also of two types), but that’s a somewhat different category of device. Besides, adjusting a lens with an iris is a little different from adjusting a basic one.

So, one adjustment lets us widen or narrow the field of view, and the other is then used to set the focus. In practice, this is done very quickly, mostly by trial and error: adjust it, take a look, adjust it again, take another look, and so on until we get the result we want.
The process goes roughly like this:
Use one adjustment to get approximately the field of view you want. The image will be blurry, but then use the second adjustment to focus it so you can judge the field of view.
Adjust the field of view again, and once it’s where you need it, move on to the focus adjustment.
Usually, focusing comes down to moving the adjustment left and right until the image becomes roughly equally blurry at both ends of its range. Then set the adjustment halfway between those two positions. It’s best to do this with a direct connection to the recorder, since any lag is very annoying.
IP cameras are a little trickier, since they usually have some delay either way, although some cameras have an additional analog video output for connecting a setup monitor.

Also, remember to adjust the lens either at the installation site or, as a last resort, somewhere else at the same distance from the test subject as it will be in actual use. For example, if you plan to set up the camera to monitor a car 15 m away, adjusting the lens while pointing it at a wall 2 m away won’t give you the same result.


I’m also often asked which option is better. I’ll try to explain.
In my opinion, a fixed lens is the better choice. It’s cheaper, although less flexible.
Inexpensive cameras use standard M12-thread lenses, which are quite common. There are other options too, such as C/CS, but not in this price range.



If you don’t want to choose and order several different lenses, people usually buy a camera with a varifocal lens. It costs a little more, but is much more flexible to set up and more convenient.
You can also buy this type of lens separately and install it in place of a fixed lens. They’re available with an M12 mount, too.


Motorized zoom lenses are genuinely useful and convenient, but they have drawbacks too. The first drawback is the price, which is self-explanatory.
The second drawback is that they’re almost pointless on fixed (non-PTZ) cameras, since zooming in without being able to change the camera’s position is rarely useful in real life. Of course, there are situations where it’s needed, but there aren’t many use cases. When you have a PTZ camera, a zoom lens is more convenient, since it lets you inspect both a wide area and a specific object.

I also get asked about long-focus lenses for keeping an eye on a car in a parking lot, along with questions about how they perform at night. Nighttime use is complicated not only by the fact that your camera’s built-in illumination may not reach the spot you need—you can supplement it with an external floodlight—but also because light sensitivity drops as the focal length increases. In other words, a scene that was lit well enough with a wide-angle lens can suddenly look dark with a “long-range” lens. By the way, varifocal lenses often have a wider aperture than fixed-focus lenses, and a much wider one than “pinhole” lenses.
So, technically, surveillance is possible, but you need to make sure the area is properly lit.
And of course, don’t forget to secure the camera firmly—or, more precisely, mount it on a surface that doesn’t vibrate. The longer the focal length, the more camera shake affects the image, making it look somewhat “hazy.”

I’ve wandered quite far from the review itself, and some of you have probably already fallen asleep reading all this, so let’s move on to the tests and a few demonstrations.
A quick warning: there will be a lot of tests, since there are two cameras and I need to show each one in action.



As a bonus—and simply for anyone who can’t be bothered to look through the screenshots—I put together a video montage from these cameras.
The first one.


The second one; the image at different viewing angles is easier to see in motion here.
A reminder: both cameras record at 25 frames per second, but due to the recorder’s limitations, the output is only 12 fps.


As a “bonus to the bonus,” I decided to add a day/night transition video.
The S1304-N camera goes first. The transition takes so long that I had to edit this clip too; you can use the camera’s timestamp to judge how long it takes. The image also gets blurry at first, stays that way for several minutes, and only then switches over.
The second is the TP-W200WT. Its transition is clear and fairly quick, noticeably better than the previous camera’s.



So, what’s the verdict?
The image sharpness at the center of the frame is quite good on both cameras, while the second one is sharper at the edges. I won’t comment on the sensor manufacturers, but the second camera produces a more pleasing image, with more natural-looking colors, at least when filming outdoors.
The second camera is also more interesting thanks to its varifocal lens.
Both cameras let you adjust the image-processing settings, but unfortunately you have to take them apart to do so, which isn’t always practical. Neither camera can be controlled from the recorder either, so you have to configure the camera itself.
No power supplies were included. On the one hand, that’s a downside: you can’t just buy one and plug it in. On the other hand, you don’t have to pay extra for power supplies and can buy a single, higher-quality one instead.
Based on the tests I ran—and on watching the cameras while filming—I’d choose the second option. But I’d prefer a kind of “hybrid” solution: the second camera, but with a fixed-focus lens. It would be cheaper, and the image is better than the first camera’s.


The title lists two prices: the regular price and the price with a coupon.
The first is S1304-N, priced at 18.99 USD with coupon LXXS1304
The second is TP-W200WT, priced at 29.99 USD with coupon LXXS1343

That’s all for now. As usual, I’m looking forward to your questions in the comments, and I hope you found the review useful. If I got anything wrong, let me know and I’ll correct it.