MP-U200S48 power supply, 48 V, 4 A
Back in February 2022, I received a couple of power supplies to review, but because of the well-known events, I never got around to writing the reviews. At most, I took some photos. And now, at last, I’ve found time to test at least one of the power supplies I received.
A reminder: to keep up with new posts on the blog, I recommend following me on Instagram, where I’ll post notifications about every new article and maybe write about something interesting now and then — link to account
You can also subscribe to updates and new articles on the Telegram channel — https://t.me/KirichBlog
The review will consist mostly of photos, but of course there will also be analysis, tests, and conclusions.
The packaging is a plain cardboard box; there are no instructions, bags, or anything like that.
It looks neat and has some distinctive design features. The case is made of thick aluminum and covered with protective film.
The power supplies were sent by Banggood, but unfortunately they’ve sold out, so there’s no point in providing a link. I couldn’t find them on AliExpress either, but while searching I came across a couple of power supplies that are presumably from the same manufacturer. Since the one reviewed here is genuinely interesting, it makes sense to link to lower-power versions:
1, 2. 30–48 W version, available in 5, 12, 24, or 48 V — link.
3, 4. 120 W version, available in 12 or 24 V — link
Compared with other power supplies:
1. Meanwell EPP-500-54 — review
2. Gospower G0966A-540-0278, 54 V 2.78 A (64 V 6 A) — review
3. The one reviewed here
4. The well-known “people’s” 24 V power supply — review
5. A slightly less well-known 180 W power supply — review
1. Compact size: 126 × 61 × 35 mm.
2. The label lists the power rating for two input-voltage ranges. In most cases, that means the 200–260 V range and nearly 200 W. But in the 90–200 V range, the load current has to be reduced from 4 A to 3.5 A, although I think it should actually deliver its full 4 A just fine at 180–190 V.
3, 4. The wire terminals have distinctive markings. The output terminals are arranged in pairs, with two contacts per pole.
The layout is moderately dense and neat.
1. There’s an input filter, and the 400 V, 220 µF capacitor is very good for a 200 W power supply.
2. There’s one fuse and a varistor, but it’s rated for 560 V, so it only helps with high-voltage spikes.
The bridge rectifier is also screwed to the case, which acts as a heatsink.
1, 2. The high-voltage transistor is insulated with a silicone cap. The retaining bar and capacitor lead also have extra insulation because they’re close to each other. Nice touch.
3. The output diode assembly is pressed against the case with thermal paste.
4. The output has a whole bank of capacitors with different capacitances: 680 + 330 + 330 + 330 µF before the inductor and 150 µF after it, for a total of about 1820 µF.
The power supply is easy to disassemble: four screws hold the circuit board in place, and another three secure the power components.
There’s insulating film on the bottom and part of the sides, plus a large piece of thermally conductive rubber on the bottom.
The soldering is neat, and the circuit board itself looks quite good too—not Mean Well quality, but pretty close.
One thing worth noting is the hole under the transformer, with a fairly large piece of thermally conductive rubber inserted into it. Apparently, it’s meant to carry heat away from the transformer core, which is definitely useful.
A closer look at the hot side.
And the cold side. You can see the bank of resistors in the snubber for the output diode assembly; to the right is the feedback circuit based on a TL431.
1. PWM controller.
2. Gate resistors for the high-voltage transistor, installed one above the other. Did they really not have a suitable resistance/power rating?
3. Presumably, this is the PWM controller’s power supply regulator, which is another plus.
4. One of the two optocouplers, most likely in the main feedback loop.
1. Input bridge rectifier.
2. High-voltage SRC65R330 transistor. I couldn’t find a datasheet; based on the information I found: N, Hard Switching, Normal, 650, 330mΩ. Not bad at all.
3. Class Y1 interwinding capacitor, rated for 250/400 V.
4. MUR2040 output diode assembly, rated for 20 A and 400 V. Also perfectly reasonable.
1. They’ve clearly put a lot of effort into the PWM controller’s power supply. Not only is there a regulator, but there are also two electrolytic capacitors.
2. There are two diodes in parallel in the high-side snubber circuit. This is partly explained by the fact that 200 W is a lot for a single-ended flyback power supply. This topology is more commonly used at power levels up to 100–150 W; above that, forward converters are used.
3. I measured the current-sense shunt resistance just in case: 170 mΩ.
4. The second feedback loop, most likely responsible for protecting against failure of the main feedback loop. Interestingly, a DIP-package optocoupler is used here, but it’s very good that they left plenty of clearance between the pins.
The measured input capacitor capacitance was about 190 µF. I measured it in-circuit, so there may be some error.
The total capacitance of the output capacitors is 1745 µF, compared with a calculated value of 1820 µF, so we can say it’s pretty honest.
Let’s power it up and check.
1, 2. The output is about 48 V. The fact that the wattmeter doesn’t register any power consumption with no load is both good and bad. Good because the power consumption is low; bad because controllers with a “green” mode don’t always behave well—they can start “buzzing” with no load. In this case, though, everything is fine.
3, 4. The adjustment range is very wide, from about 27 to 56 V, but it’s clear that adjustment is rather coarse with this setup.
Judging by how long the LED stays lit after the power is switched off, I can say that the power consumption is indeed very low, and that the power supply’s output bleeder resistor has a fairly high resistance.
Checking how the output voltage varies with load current. And here, things weren’t as rosy as I’d expected from such a nice-looking power supply.
I measured in 1 A increments over the 1–5 A range. You can see that at 4 A, the voltage dropped by about 1 V. It was initially set to about 48.05 V.
I also estimated the power supply’s efficiency. At each load current, it was:
1 A - 85%
2 A - 88.4%
3 A - 87.6%
4 A - 87.9%
5 A - 86.9%
Overall, this efficiency is normal for a power supply with this kind of topology. I wouldn’t call it amazing, but I can’t say it’s bad either.
The protection trips at a current of about 5.3 A, with an input voltage of 230 V.
I evaluated the temperature under different loads from 1 to 4 A, in 1 A increments, with 15-minute intervals.
It works fine without additional ventilation, just sitting on the table, but I didn’t increase the load any further because the transformer heated up to over 100 °C. The other components stayed within their allowable temperature limits. It will of course get hotter when installed in an enclosure, so additional cooling will be needed. Still, I think the power supply could handle 5 A with airflow.
As usual, I checked how the output voltage varies with temperature.
1. No load, cold
2. 4 A, hot
3. No load, hot.
Basically, it’s fine, except for the strange behavior I noticed next.
4–6. After removing the load and letting the power supply cool down gradually, the voltage first started to rise and then fell. The photos show a 25-minute interval.
And of course, ripple measurements.
The probe was connected to the output terminal block using a 1+0.1 µF filter.
Results:
1. No load. You can see that the power supply has significantly reduced its frequency—the so-called “green” mode.
2–4. Load currents of 1, 2, and 4 A.
Overall, I think it’s excellent: 40 mV peak-to-peak at an output voltage of 48 V is very low.
Next, I checked the low-frequency ripple at 2 and 4 A. It came out to about 100 mV—higher, of course, but still fine in my opinion, especially considering the output voltage.
Finally, I got curious about how the power supply behaves under overload, i.e. essentially, the maximum current is 5 A.
And here, nothing much has changed: 45 mV at high frequency and about 100 mV at low frequency.
While I was looking for power supplies on AliExpress, I came across another piece of nonsense. Chinese sellers apparently build part of the product cost into shipping, and you end up with this: the product costs 20 cents, shipping is $6, and it's the same for every model. So for a 12 V, 8 A power supply, the product costs $4, with the same $6 shipping.
Conclusions.
This power supply has its drawbacks. For example, its output voltage regulation under varying loads isn't great, and it behaves rather strangely as it cools down. But in my opinion, these are more than offset by the decent build quality, low ripple, and relatively modest heating for this power level.
If you need a primary power source for some kind of adjustable converter, such as a DPS5005 or RK6006 (with reduced power), it's a perfectly reasonable buy—if you can find one at a decent price, of course.
I liked the overall approach. It's neatly put together and behaves well; you can tell they gave some thought to the circuit design instead of just soldering something together and only getting a good product on the eighth iteration. All in all, it gets a thumbs-up.
That's all for now. I hope this was useful, and as always, I'd be glad to hear your comments.
A reminder: to keep up with new posts on the blog, I recommend following me on Instagram, where I’ll post notifications about every new article and maybe write about something interesting now and then — link to account
You can also subscribe to updates and new articles on the Telegram channel — https://t.me/KirichBlog
The review will consist mostly of photos, but of course there will also be analysis, tests, and conclusions.
The packaging is a plain cardboard box; there are no instructions, bags, or anything like that.
It looks neat and has some distinctive design features. The case is made of thick aluminum and covered with protective film.
The power supplies were sent by Banggood, but unfortunately they’ve sold out, so there’s no point in providing a link. I couldn’t find them on AliExpress either, but while searching I came across a couple of power supplies that are presumably from the same manufacturer. Since the one reviewed here is genuinely interesting, it makes sense to link to lower-power versions:
1, 2. 30–48 W version, available in 5, 12, 24, or 48 V — link.
3, 4. 120 W version, available in 12 or 24 V — link
Compared with other power supplies:
1. Meanwell EPP-500-54 — review
2. Gospower G0966A-540-0278, 54 V 2.78 A (64 V 6 A) — review
3. The one reviewed here
4. The well-known “people’s” 24 V power supply — review
5. A slightly less well-known 180 W power supply — review
1. Compact size: 126 × 61 × 35 mm.
2. The label lists the power rating for two input-voltage ranges. In most cases, that means the 200–260 V range and nearly 200 W. But in the 90–200 V range, the load current has to be reduced from 4 A to 3.5 A, although I think it should actually deliver its full 4 A just fine at 180–190 V.
3, 4. The wire terminals have distinctive markings. The output terminals are arranged in pairs, with two contacts per pole.
The layout is moderately dense and neat.
1. There’s an input filter, and the 400 V, 220 µF capacitor is very good for a 200 W power supply.
2. There’s one fuse and a varistor, but it’s rated for 560 V, so it only helps with high-voltage spikes.
The bridge rectifier is also screwed to the case, which acts as a heatsink.
1, 2. The high-voltage transistor is insulated with a silicone cap. The retaining bar and capacitor lead also have extra insulation because they’re close to each other. Nice touch.
3. The output diode assembly is pressed against the case with thermal paste.
4. The output has a whole bank of capacitors with different capacitances: 680 + 330 + 330 + 330 µF before the inductor and 150 µF after it, for a total of about 1820 µF.
The power supply is easy to disassemble: four screws hold the circuit board in place, and another three secure the power components.
There’s insulating film on the bottom and part of the sides, plus a large piece of thermally conductive rubber on the bottom.
The soldering is neat, and the circuit board itself looks quite good too—not Mean Well quality, but pretty close.
One thing worth noting is the hole under the transformer, with a fairly large piece of thermally conductive rubber inserted into it. Apparently, it’s meant to carry heat away from the transformer core, which is definitely useful.
A closer look at the hot side.
And the cold side. You can see the bank of resistors in the snubber for the output diode assembly; to the right is the feedback circuit based on a TL431.
1. PWM controller.
2. Gate resistors for the high-voltage transistor, installed one above the other. Did they really not have a suitable resistance/power rating?
3. Presumably, this is the PWM controller’s power supply regulator, which is another plus.
4. One of the two optocouplers, most likely in the main feedback loop.
1. Input bridge rectifier.
2. High-voltage SRC65R330 transistor. I couldn’t find a datasheet; based on the information I found: N, Hard Switching, Normal, 650, 330mΩ. Not bad at all.
3. Class Y1 interwinding capacitor, rated for 250/400 V.
4. MUR2040 output diode assembly, rated for 20 A and 400 V. Also perfectly reasonable.
1. They’ve clearly put a lot of effort into the PWM controller’s power supply. Not only is there a regulator, but there are also two electrolytic capacitors.
2. There are two diodes in parallel in the high-side snubber circuit. This is partly explained by the fact that 200 W is a lot for a single-ended flyback power supply. This topology is more commonly used at power levels up to 100–150 W; above that, forward converters are used.
3. I measured the current-sense shunt resistance just in case: 170 mΩ.
4. The second feedback loop, most likely responsible for protecting against failure of the main feedback loop. Interestingly, a DIP-package optocoupler is used here, but it’s very good that they left plenty of clearance between the pins.
The measured input capacitor capacitance was about 190 µF. I measured it in-circuit, so there may be some error.
The total capacitance of the output capacitors is 1745 µF, compared with a calculated value of 1820 µF, so we can say it’s pretty honest.
Let’s power it up and check.
1, 2. The output is about 48 V. The fact that the wattmeter doesn’t register any power consumption with no load is both good and bad. Good because the power consumption is low; bad because controllers with a “green” mode don’t always behave well—they can start “buzzing” with no load. In this case, though, everything is fine.
3, 4. The adjustment range is very wide, from about 27 to 56 V, but it’s clear that adjustment is rather coarse with this setup.
Judging by how long the LED stays lit after the power is switched off, I can say that the power consumption is indeed very low, and that the power supply’s output bleeder resistor has a fairly high resistance.
Checking how the output voltage varies with load current. And here, things weren’t as rosy as I’d expected from such a nice-looking power supply.
I measured in 1 A increments over the 1–5 A range. You can see that at 4 A, the voltage dropped by about 1 V. It was initially set to about 48.05 V.
I also estimated the power supply’s efficiency. At each load current, it was:
1 A - 85%
2 A - 88.4%
3 A - 87.6%
4 A - 87.9%
5 A - 86.9%
Overall, this efficiency is normal for a power supply with this kind of topology. I wouldn’t call it amazing, but I can’t say it’s bad either.
The protection trips at a current of about 5.3 A, with an input voltage of 230 V.
I evaluated the temperature under different loads from 1 to 4 A, in 1 A increments, with 15-minute intervals.
It works fine without additional ventilation, just sitting on the table, but I didn’t increase the load any further because the transformer heated up to over 100 °C. The other components stayed within their allowable temperature limits. It will of course get hotter when installed in an enclosure, so additional cooling will be needed. Still, I think the power supply could handle 5 A with airflow.
As usual, I checked how the output voltage varies with temperature.
1. No load, cold
2. 4 A, hot
3. No load, hot.
Basically, it’s fine, except for the strange behavior I noticed next.
4–6. After removing the load and letting the power supply cool down gradually, the voltage first started to rise and then fell. The photos show a 25-minute interval.
And of course, ripple measurements.
The probe was connected to the output terminal block using a 1+0.1 µF filter.
Results:
1. No load. You can see that the power supply has significantly reduced its frequency—the so-called “green” mode.
2–4. Load currents of 1, 2, and 4 A.
Overall, I think it’s excellent: 40 mV peak-to-peak at an output voltage of 48 V is very low.
Next, I checked the low-frequency ripple at 2 and 4 A. It came out to about 100 mV—higher, of course, but still fine in my opinion, especially considering the output voltage.
Finally, I got curious about how the power supply behaves under overload, i.e. essentially, the maximum current is 5 A.
And here, nothing much has changed: 45 mV at high frequency and about 100 mV at low frequency.
While I was looking for power supplies on AliExpress, I came across another piece of nonsense. Chinese sellers apparently build part of the product cost into shipping, and you end up with this: the product costs 20 cents, shipping is $6, and it's the same for every model. So for a 12 V, 8 A power supply, the product costs $4, with the same $6 shipping.
Conclusions.
This power supply has its drawbacks. For example, its output voltage regulation under varying loads isn't great, and it behaves rather strangely as it cools down. But in my opinion, these are more than offset by the decent build quality, low ripple, and relatively modest heating for this power level.
If you need a primary power source for some kind of adjustable converter, such as a DPS5005 or RK6006 (with reduced power), it's a perfectly reasonable buy—if you can find one at a decent price, of course.
I liked the overall approach. It's neatly put together and behaves well; you can tell they gave some thought to the circuit design instead of just soldering something together and only getting a good product on the eighth iteration. All in all, it gets a thumbs-up.
That's all for now. I hope this was useful, and as always, I'd be glad to hear your comments.
This page was found when searching for:
2, https://www.kirich.blog/obzory/bloki-pitaniya/1187-blok-pitaniya-mp-u200s48-48-volt-4-ampera, src65r330e. самоделка на его основе
2, https://www.kirich.blog/obzory/bloki-pitaniya/1187-blok-pitaniya-mp-u200s48-48-volt-4-ampera, src65r330e. самоделка на его основе
The figures from this review are in the measurement database: Power supplies
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