Raitool trim router, or “file it down after assembly”

A router is definitely not one of the most popular tools, unlike a drill, hammer drill, or screwdriver, but it can still be a real lifesaver in some situations.
I can't say I'm any kind of expert when it comes to using routers, but I've had a chance to work with them a few times over the years, so today I'll share what I've learned from those experiences. I'll also talk about the different types of routers.



I'll start by explaining what a router is and what types are available. Since this part is essentially extra background, I'll tuck it under a spoiler.


When choosing a router model, I wanted to get the most powerful one, even though the store had other models available. The key difference was their power: there were 300, 450, 500, 650, 700, and 800 W models. There was also a model that came in a carrying case. I probably would have chosen that one, but it was rated at 500 or 550 W, which wasn't quite what I wanted.


Anyway, I chose the most powerful model, ordered it, and was pretty stunned by the condition it arrived in. The box was badly damaged. Judging by the YouTube videos, I'm not the only one who was this "lucky," although from the reviews it seems I was "luckier" than everyone else in the sense that my box was damaged especially badly.
As it turned out, this didn't affect the tool itself at all, but packing a tool weighing around 1.5 kg in a little box like that seems a bit optimistic, especially considering it had to be shipped through the mail.

By the way, I also found out that the store has two externally identical models that differ slightly in price. The one in this review costs $50, and there's also a $46 model.


Everything inside was tossed into one big pile, but it looks like nothing was lost.


The package includes:
1. Router
2. Edge guide
3. Bracket for attaching the auxiliary guide
4. Auxiliary guide
5. Screw + wing nut
6. Locking screw
7. Two small wrenches
8. Manual.
9. Adapter


The manual deserves a comment of its own. If you can't tell what's shown in this photo, let me explain: the manual refers to photos, but there are no photos. The manual itself is also very poor quality; I'd even say you might as well throw it away.


1. Two wrenches and some extra hardware.
2. Edge guide. Poorly made, with everything crooked and wonky.
3. Auxiliary guide. This one looks reasonably neat.
4. The bracket for the auxiliary guide was also slightly damaged, but nothing serious; I straightened it out in a few seconds.


The router itself looks quite neat, has no unpleasant smell, and feels pretty good in the hand.


And then I remembered seeing a similar router somewhere. Just out of curiosity, I googled "Makita 3703 router," following the same naming pattern as the Raitool 3703, and found some similar router models.
As they say, spot the three differences :)


Actually, no. Because of the model-number confusion and the Chinese manufacturers' vivid imagination, the router in this review looks like the "bare tool" version of another model, the Makita RT0700CX2. It's a great model, but it costs nearly $400.


In any case, I found what I was looking for: the Makita router manual is almost entirely compatible with the Raitool model. The package contents are practically the same, and even the base is plastic. So, later on I'll use screenshots from the Makita manual to explain some technical details.


The adapter gave me a bit of a laugh: it's physically incompatible with this router's mains plug. I temporarily used another adapter, which, incidentally, I once got from Banggood as part of a power supply package with a European plug. What are the odds :)


The switch is on top of the housing. There's no speed control, though that's typical of devices like this. With a router, higher speed is generally better, within reason, of course. The cable exit is protected by a long rubber sleeve, and the cable itself is fairly flexible. If not for the plug, I'd give it 5 stars.
The brush caps are on the sides. They're not screwed all the way in, just flush with the housing. You could tighten them further, but I left them as they were.
The model information on the label is a little odd. The box said model 3703, but this says 3701. The rated power is 800 W, with a speed of up to 30,000 rpm.


I somehow forgot to mention in the list of included items that there's also a base, which clamps onto the router housing with a screw clamp. In my opinion, this is a pretty mediocre solution, but then again, this kind of design is quite common on trim routers, for example on Makita models.


One side of the metal housing has a makeshift ruler. It isn't actually attached to anything and is just there to make the job easier.


The locking mechanism is actually quite convenient, and a rubber insert has been added for a more comfortable grip. Since the router is fairly compact, it should be comfortable to hold for someone with an average-sized hand.


There is also a mounting point here for securing accessories, such as an edge guide or straight guide. But the screw threads directly into the plastic, so I have some doubts about how durable this solution will be.


The base consists of two parts. There must be some reason for this; otherwise, they would have made it as a single piece, but I still haven't figured it out. What I do take issue with is that one of the screw heads has been slightly mangled. I had to grind it down a little so it wouldn't scratch the surface the router will be moving over.


It's also worth mentioning that the base isn't flat: it's bowed by about 1 mm at each edge. Plunge routers usually have a larger base, and some jobs really are easier with one, but trim routers generally have a small base. You can use a router with a small base for other jobs, of course; it's just less convenient.
But this warping is a bit concerning. I don't know how Makita's base is—I haven't checked—but now I'll have to figure out how to flatten this one. The whole point of a router is for the bit to be perpendicular to the base, or at the very least for the base to sit flat rather than rock.



The router with the base removed. I think it could easily be used in this form as a spindle in some kind of small milling machine. The metal housing is 64 mm in diameter.


The router alone weighs 1120 grams; with the cord and base, it weighs 1380 grams. In its fullest “configuration,” it comes close to 1.5 kg.


The collet chuck accepts shanks of just one diameter: 1/4 inch or 6 mm. This isn't a very common size, so be sure to take it into account when choosing a router. Sometimes a more expensive router with a common collet size can work out cheaper because the bits cost less. So when choosing a router, it's worth checking bit prices too.
The more common shank diameter for router bits is 8 mm.

A test showed that the collet is designed specifically for 1/4 inch: it won't clamp a 6.35 mm or 6 mm shank.


I also noticed a few manufacturing flaws while I was at it. First, there's some flash around the spindle shaft opening. It's not critical, but it's annoying.
"The ruler" is milled into the aluminum housing, and there are also some leftover bits of metal that should really be removed. All in all, if there is any quality control, someone is getting paid for nothing.


You can see the cooling fan impeller inside. It draws air in from the top and directs it toward the cutting area to remove the wood dust (routers don't usually produce sawdust) and then spread it in an even layer across every horizontal surface in the room where you're working. Yes, unfortunately, there's no way to connect a vacuum cleaner here.


The bit-clamping mechanism isn't very convenient. There's no spindle lock, so you have to use two wrenches. The collet itself is also quite tight and has a little runout, so installing a bit goes like this:
Insert the bit and tighten it firmly.
Check for runout.
If there's runout, loosen the bit and turn it slightly.
Tighten the nuts firmly again.

The spindle itself has no noticeable runout, and the rotor is very well balanced. The tool barely vibrates in your hand.


Knowing what “Chinese budget toolmaking” can be like, I took the router apart before using it, just to be safe. First, I remove the brushes. To avoid mixing up which one goes where and how it was positioned, I marked them with a marker.


There’s nothing under the top cover except the switch. The ground wire is left hanging loose, so instead of replacing the power plug, I may replace the original cord with a long, flexible two-wire vacuum cleaner cord I have lying around unused anyway.


The switch is a standard type, rated for a maximum current of 8 A. It sits slightly recessed in the housing to reduce the chance of accidentally switching it off.


Next, we split the housing into two halves. The two parts fit tightly together, and it took quite a bit of force to separate them. The fit is perfectly decent here.


A fairly thick sheet of electrical pressboard is fitted inside the stator as additional insulation.


The windings show signs of varnish coating, with more in some places and less in others.


I didn’t try to knock out the front bearing; it’s seated tightly. The rear one is marked 627RS and is a sealed type.


The rotor and commutator assembly are made quite well, and I have no particular complaints. You could, of course, criticize the windings for having only a very thin coat of varnish. But a router is a tool that doesn’t produce heavy sawdust or metal shavings, so it’s hard to damage the windings—especially since the air intake is at the top, not in the cutting area.


I didn’t have a router of my own before, and I’d seen similar bits for sale at relatively high prices, so I ordered one for this review as well.
It’s a standard straight bit with carbide tips. This bit costs $3 and is called 1/4 x 3/8 Inch 60mm Long Blade Two Flutes Straight Router Bit


At the very beginning of the review, I wrote that “you can never have too much power.” That’s why I ordered a small bit: as the diameter increases, so does the power required. Otherwise, the cutting speed will drop sharply and the tool will be very uncomfortable to use.
There are special profile bits for making attractive edges, but I wouldn’t recommend using them with a router like this. You need more than 1000 W for that—ideally closer to 1400–1500 W.
That said, if you really need to and there isn’t much work to do, you can use bits like these even with a 500–600 W router. But if you have a lot of work, it’s better to look for a more powerful router.


Although Makita allows bits up to 20–25 mm in diameter with its 3703 model, which is rated at just 440 W, and includes a table in the manual listing different bit types and their corresponding diameters. Since I suspect the router under review is unlikely to actually deliver 800 W, this table also applies to the model I’m reviewing.


The cutter's cutting edges are not quite symmetrical, although the cutter itself has no runout.


A quick aside. When using a router, you need to move it so that the cutter is always cutting against the direction of travel.


The cutter rotates clockwise, so when working on the right-hand edge, move the tool away from you; on the left-hand edge, move it toward you, although the latter is awkward and dangerous.
For example, in the photo on the left the tool is moving away from you, while in the one on the right it is moving toward you. This is necessary to get a clean cut without tear-out and to keep the cutter from "running off" the edge.


When working on an edge, the same principle applies, but because of how the router is set up, you have to move it toward you along the right-hand edge if you're holding it in your right hand.


Now for the different ways to use the guides.
You can use the router without any guides at all, but I'll skip that option and move on to the edge guide.
It attaches to the router at a designated mounting point. The guide itself has two screws: one for adjustment and one for locking it in place. The setup is simple: first, use the adjustment screw to position the outer part of the pivot mechanism in the same plane as the edge of the cutter, then lock it in place with the second screw.


On the actual tool, it looks something like this.
And here I have a major complaint about the guide's build quality. To start with, it's somewhat... crooked. You could of course "file it down" until it's right, but overall, it's just not quite as intended. You can get the mechanism properly aligned as supplied, but it's difficult.


The auxiliary guide can be used to rout straight grooves or as a stop to limit the width of a cut.


The idea is pretty good. This use is more relevant for me, since I'll use this tool as an edge router much less often, whereas routing a recess for a door hinge or lock is quite realistic.


But here, too, I got a "surprise": the whole mechanism has quite a lot of play, which makes it difficult to position the cutter accurately. On the larger routers I've used before, the guide was rigidly attached with two rods; here, it's just one fairly flexible piece of metal. You can still use it, of course, but the discomfort is obvious, and if you want to fit a door hinge recess "exactly", you'll have a hard time.


The play is mainly due to two things:
1. The guide doesn't clamp fully onto the rail because it's crooked and the screw is poorly designed.
2. The rail doesn't clamp properly against the plastic part; the screw hits a protrusion on the housing before it reaches the rail.


There's also a second way to mount the guide, facing away from the router. In this setup, it bears against some additional surface, but the intended use is actually routing circular grooves and cutting large-diameter holes. For this, a pin or something sharp is inserted into one of the holes to serve as the pivot point (figs. 10–12).
Figure 13 shows the router set up for working on an edge.


A photo of the guide mounted on the actual tool.
With this setup, the play may be even greater because the mechanism extends farther out.


Of course, I did some testing with this router. Unfortunately, I couldn't find anything at home to test its primary purpose—working on edges—but I was more interested in how it behaves under load and whether it's actually practical to use.
For the test, I used the much-abused board that I'd already drilled, sawed, driven hundreds of screws into, and generally mistreated in every way I could. All of that has made it look even more like some of our roads—that is, it has no smooth surface.


For the first test, I simply made a couple of passes along a straightedge, cutting 5 and 10 mm deep. The cutter is 10 mm in diameter, and the router barely noticed either pass. However, the cutter came loose during the process, so I had to tighten it again; it didn't happen after that. Unfortunately, I couldn't get the cutter positioned in the collet without any runout.


The second test is simpler in some ways, but also more illustrative: a typical use for a router—installing a hinge. In this case, I used a hefty steel hinge from a set I've had lying around for quite a while.


The hinge is 130 mm long, with a 28–29 mm mortise width and a thickness of 3 mm. So I set the bit depth to 3 mm and the guide to 28 mm.


It took very little time to cut the recess. As a side note, I found it convenient to hold the protruding part of the guide and use it as a handle.


Two things became clear during the process:
1. I made the mortise too wide.
2. I didn't cut it deep enough.


I decided to repeat the test, but this time I marked it out more accurately and set the bit depth using the hinge itself. In other words, I placed the hinge against the base and set the bit depth to the edge of the hinge. That turned out to be even easier than using a ruler.


The result was better: the hinge surface was flush with the board. Of course, this bit isn't ideal for hinges with such a large corner radius, but the result was still pretty good, especially considering how rough the board was and how stubbornly it kept the router from sliding smoothly.


One last test: measuring power consumption. I set the bit depth to about 10–12 mm and routed a fair amount of board quite aggressively.


Peak power during operation was about 290 W, while no-load power was 180 W. I can say that with these settings (a 10 mm bit and a 10–12 mm cutting depth), the router chews through wood with ease. I think you could comfortably use even larger bits.


This is me trying to cut hinge recesses with a Fiolent 1100 about 9 years ago. The result is far from perfect, of course, but it was my first attempt.


After all my tests, the entire balcony floor is now covered in sawdust, and there's even sawdust inside the base.


I had to make a couple of modifications before I could use this router.
First, I had to cut away a small piece of the plastic near the clamping screw so it could clamp the guide. Before that, it just pressed against the plastic.


I also added a washer to make the guide assembly rigid and keep it from shifting during operation because the square part of the clamping screw sticks out too far.


I'm not sure yet whether I'll make a video, but to give you a better idea of how it works, here's a clip by another creator. He does seem to handle it very gently, though: shallow cuts and a slow feed rate.


Here's another interesting video. What's interesting isn't so much the content as the fact that the box says model 3703, but the router he's testing is clearly not the same model as mine. For one thing, it's rated at 500 W, while mine is rated at 800 W. I could hear the difference in power right away, and you can clearly hear the speed dropping under load in the video.


One of my readers offered to share his video on mortising hinges. I thought it would be useful, so I've added it to the review.
Part 1


Part 2


Now I can sum things up. First, the good points:
1. Excellent rotor balance.
2. The router itself is assembled pretty well.
3. Plenty of power in reserve.
4. No noticeable spindle play.

The drawbacks are minor individually, but there are quite a few of them.
1. Weak packaging.
2. The bit can be tricky to install, and it may wobble.
3. The guide-locking screw is the wrong size. This can be fixed by adding a washer.
4. The screw that secures the guide to the housing is too long and presses against the plastic. This can be fixed by cutting away the excess plastic.
5. The base isn't flat. It's not a major issue, but it's annoying. I think it can be fixed by loosening the self-tapping screws.
6. The edge guide is crooked. I haven't fixed it yet, and may not bother.
7. The power rating is overstated. Although it's listed as 800 W, I think the actual figure is closer to 450–500 W.
8. There are burrs and flash on the housing. It's not a major issue, but it does suggest poor manufacturing standards.

There's not much more to say. The title of the review sums it up: after assembly, it needs a little work with a file.
So, the router itself is pretty good: vibration is minimal, it has plenty of power, and it cuts easily. But a large number of minor flaws spoil the overall impression.

Important note: the collet is 1/4 inch. Although the product page says Collet Diameter: 6mm(1/4"), it won't grip a 6 mm bit, so be careful.

That's all from me. As usual, I'll be glad to hear your questions and suggestions, and I apologize for any mistakes in the review, since I'm "no real welder" when it comes to this subject. Perhaps someone with more experience can offer some useful advice.