I've already told you about a kit for building a 3D printer, and today I want to tell you about my saga of assembling a laser engraver. It wasn't all as easy as I'd hoped, but I did get a positive result in the end. Anyway, if you're interested in little machines like these, read on. I hope you'll find it interesting.
Before the review, I need to give a warning. WARNING: This device contains a high-power laser emitter. It is therefore extremely dangerous to be nearby (even in the same room) while the device is operating without protective glasses. Remember, you can look at a laser only twice in your life. And that's no joke or overcautious warning: a laser this powerful really is extremely dangerous
Laser engravers are an interesting subject, which is why I ordered this kit in the first place. But I'm even more interested in devices like printers, milling machines, and the like. Maybe it's partly because I once trained as a CNC machine tool operator, or maybe it's just something I'm into. I don't know, but I can't ignore the subject :)
This kit is available in 7 versions.
Without a laser And with lasers rated at: 300 mW 500 mW 1600 mW 2000 mW 2500 mW 5500 mW
The working area is 148 × 210 mm, or the size of an A5 sheet. Overall dimensions: 340 × 380 × 200 mm
For the demo and testing, I chose the version with a 2500 mW laser. Of course, I wanted the 5500 mW one, but unfortunately that didn't work out, even though it would have looked much more impressive.
The kit comes in a large cardboard box. In fact, the box is big enough that the engraver would probably fit inside even when assembled.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
No complaints about the packaging quality: everything is packed snugly in compartments made of polyethylene foam. The only things that might shift around during shipping are the aluminum profiles, but they don't care.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
And here's the whole kit, just as it came.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
I spent a long time looking for some kind of documentation. I even managed to think they'd included a flash drive (I'll get to that later), but no. The only documentation in the box was a packing list with the contents. Yes, that was a surprise: a kit with no assembly instructions, basically one big puzzle.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Well, what can you do? Let's unpack it and try to assemble this thing. The first thing that caught my eye was a nice-looking little box containing all the fasteners. It's a double-sided box, depending on which way you turn it, and what's more, the lids are hinged. Nice touch. If I can't assemble the engraver, at least I'll have a nice little box for fasteners :)
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Jokes aside, though, it still needs to be assembled. Here's what I had to work with at the start. A few pictures from the product page, for example these:
They only gave me a general idea of how it worked, but I already knew that without them.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
My search for a decent set of instructions came up empty, but I did find a fairly good tutorial on YouTube. The person was assembling exactly the same engraver; the only difference was the size, i.e. only the length of the aluminum profiles was different.
Watching this video, I started assembling the engraver. For convenience, I saved it to my computer as a video file. A few things made the job somewhat more difficult. 1. The video quality leaves a lot to be desired. 2. My goal was not only to assemble it, but also to photograph the entire process. 3. On top of that, I wanted not only to show the process, but to show how to do it properly, without having to take things apart and reassemble them.
Even so, there were points during assembly where I missed a step, simply because I didn't know it needed to be done. I'll mention these details as I go through the review, while I still remember them.
We start by assembling the frame of the future engraver. For this, we'll need: 1. Four corner brackets 2. Two short aluminum profiles 3. Four M5 nuts 4. Four M5x10 screws 5. Four washers.
They're easy to find: there are only four corner brackets and two profiles in the kit, the screws and washers are in the same compartment, and the M5 nuts are easy to spot :) At this stage, I initially left out the washers. I only found out they were used here near the very end, so I had to reassemble the frame. They weren't mentioned anywhere, so I was “saving” them until the end.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
The aluminum profile is X-shaped and quite sturdy.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Assembly is very straightforward: slide the nut inside the profile, place the corner bracket on top, and screw the whole thing together. This is where I started to suspect the washers were needed: the screws were pressing against the profile a little, and the washers were in the same compartment. The kit included a few small Allen keys along with the fasteners.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
You should end up with something like this. As you assemble it, align the corner brackets so their faces are flush with the ends of the aluminum profiles.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Take the parts from the previous step, get two more profiles out of the box (there are only two of these as well), plus four M5 nuts, four M5x10 screws, and four washers.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
These profiles are not only longer, but also have an XX-shaped cross-section and threaded holes at the ends. They're even more rigid. I wonder where I could get some for myself.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
This is what the frame will look like. The XX profiles form the sides of the frame, while the X profile forms the front and back.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
The video and this photo served as the “instructions.”
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
For this stage, we'll need some acrylic parts. These parts are packed separately in a single bag.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
We'll also need two stepper motors. Three motors are included; they're all identical, so pick any two.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
In addition to the 42HS34-1304A marking, the motors are labeled with the name of the engraver's manufacturer. This is where I got a little confused. It took me a while to find documentation for the 42HS34 motors, but I couldn't find any information on the 1304A variant.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
First, we'll need: 1. Two side plates to mount all the parts on 2. Two motors 3. Four M3x10 screws and the matching hex key.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Assemble them as mirror images, as shown in the photo.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Next, install the bearings. You'll need: 1. Eight bearings 2. Eight plastic spacers 3. Eight M5x30 screws and the matching hex key 4. Eight M5 nuts 5. The parts from the previous step
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
The bearings have plastic housings and are marked 625Z. According to the video, each of the two assemblies needed 10 bearings, but only 16 were included, so there was no way to assemble them as shown in the video. A simple calculation showed that this assembly needs four bearings per side, not five. Apparently, that's because the design is lighter, even though there's a mounting hole for a fifth bearing.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
The assembled units.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Above I mentioned the washers that I had to add after assembly. At first I thought they were needed for this step, but the numbers didn't add up, so no washers are needed here. Still, if you follow my “instructions,” you should have just one washer left.
In general, it should look like this.
DIY kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Check that it moves smoothly and has no play using the remaining piece of aluminum profile. Adjust it if necessary. There isn't really any adjustment mechanism, but you can loosen the bearing mounting screws and shift them slightly in their holes. Ideally, you want a compromise between smooth movement and no play.
DIY kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
As I mentioned above, the kit is sold in several versions, which differ in the power of the included laser module; it's also available without a laser. The laser's power is indicated on the box containing the circuit boards and wires, which also holds the module itself. The laser module comes packed in an antistatic bag covered in Chinese writing, which I suspect is warning text.
DIY kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
There's a sticker on the module indicating its power, but no other identifying marks—just a black, ribbed box. The front section rotates to let you adjust the focus manually.
DIY kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
There's a fan on the opposite side. It connects to the module's circuit board via a two-pin connector. I haven't checked with an oscilloscope what's happening at the connector pins, but even at minimum power—or with the laser completely off—the fan spins just fine, although in theory it shouldn't because the power is controlled by PWM. I'll try to figure out how the control works later. The three laser mounting screws were already installed.
DIY kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Now let's assemble the mechanism that moves along the X axis. You'll need: 1. Two acrylic parts for the mechanism 2. Laser module 3. Motor 4. Four bearings 5. Eight plastic bushings 6. Four M5x50 screws 7. Four M3x10 screws 8. Four M5 nuts 9. Pulley (not shown in the photo) 10. The appropriate hex keys.
DIY kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
At this point I went back not only to the video, but also to the photos on the product page to make sure I was doing things right.
DIY kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Screw the motor onto one of the acrylic parts of the mechanism, then fit the toothed pulley.
DIY kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Install the laser module. There are three holes for it; you don't need to unscrew the bolts all the way to fit it. By the way, the acrylic parts have more holes than necessary. Most likely, they're there to accommodate lasers with different power ratings and housings.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
Now assemble the motor and laser assembly. First, take the long bolts, spacers, and bearings, and put them all together.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
You should end up with this rather clever assembly. Clamp the whole “sandwich” together with four nuts.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
As with the Y-axis assembly, check this one using a short piece of aluminum extrusion. Adjust it if necessary. The assembly is ready.
You'll need: 1. The laser module assembly from the previous step 2. The aluminum XX-shaped extrusion—the last one left 3. 2 acrylic belt clamps 4. Two M5x10 bolts 5. Two M5 nuts 6. Two M3x13 bolts 7. Two M3 nuts 8. Hex keys of the appropriate sizes
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
Position the motor pulley so it's roughly in line with the bearings. Don't spend too much time on it; you'll need to fine-tune it later anyway.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
Cut a piece of timing belt to the required length and feed it into the slot in the aluminum extrusion.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
The timing belt comes as one continuous piece. At first, I cut it about 3 cm longer than the extrusion, but experience showed I could have used a bit more and cut it longer. It doesn't make much difference, though; a little extra just makes it easier to adjust the tension.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
Speaking of belt tension. The kit includes six of these little things. The design is almost embarrassingly primitive. First, fit a bolt and nut into the small hole and tighten them.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
After that, thread the toothed belt through the slot in the part and tighten the whole assembly using an M5 screw and nut. Pull the excess belt through the slot; adjust the tension by moving the part along the profile slot. When installing it, try to position the clamp as close to the edge of the profile as possible, without letting it stick out past the edge. One drawback of this design is that the belt is pressed by the end of an M3 screw, which can simply push through it if you apply too much force. So try not to use too much force when adjusting it. I plan to make metal shims for the screw to press the belt against.
Laser engraver assembly kit with a 2.5-watt laser
The assembly is now complete.
Laser engraver assembly kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Finally, adjust the position of the motor pulley so that the belt runs as close to its center as possible.
The kit came with a small cardboard box containing the laser emitter, the electronics board, various wires and accessories. As I understand it, all the kits are the same and differ only in the contents of this box, which is very convenient.
Laser engraver assembly kit with a 2.5-watt laser
There are three cables in the kit: two long ones and one short one. By the way, the cables have fairly thick outer sheaths, which caused me some trouble, since the wires in the video I posted above don't have a shared sheath. They also included a split tube for bundling the cables to the motor and laser emitter.
Laser engraver assembly kit with a 2.5-watt laser
The cables differ only in length, and each has a connector at both ends. The connectors are different: the wider ones go to the motor, and the shorter ones plug into the board. They also included two plastic end caps. When I first saw them (they were inserted into the profile), I couldn't figure out for a long time what they were for or what to do with them.
Laser engraver assembly kit with a 2.5-watt laser
I could have left this photo out, but then I wouldn't be able to show the mistake I made. I inserted the wires as shown in the photo, covered them with the end cap, and got this neat-looking result. But here's a small mistake. It's actually better to route the wires after installing the control board. The wires in the video were thinner, so they could still be moved after the end cap was installed. With this setup, once the end cap is in place, the wire won't move at all. As for the end cap: without a cable, you can simply slide it into the profile, but with a thick cable, forget about it—you have to insert it from above, pressing it into the profile.
Laser engraver assembly kit with a 2.5-watt laser
In principle, you can test-fit the control board where you plan to mount it and make this neat-looking arrangement right away. In practice, though, I had to insert and remove the end cap a couple more times to move the wire.
The control board for this machine is primitive and is essentially a «kit» in its own right.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
The whole assembly consists of a backplane, an Arduino-based «brain», and two motor driver boards.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
All the connectors on the board are labeled—or rather, every contact on the board is labeled, which is really nice and came in handy later.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
1. The board has two buttons: one for power and one for the laser. With the laser off, the electronics still work; the machine just moves «without doing anything». 2. Laser emitter operating mode. I didn't understand what it's for, since the laser's power can be adjusted just fine. Actually, that's not quite right: the laser has two power modes, maximum and minimum (for aiming and focusing). 3. This one's a complete mystery. To be honest, I haven't tried switching it, but presumably it's the internal firmware version O_o. 4. The input and output connectors are labeled on both the top and the bottom.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
1. The Arduino board has an Atmega328 microcontroller, with a reset button next to it. 2. On the back are a voltage regulator and a CH340 RS232-to-USB converter chip. 3, 4. The drivers are pretty standard, built around Allegro MicroSystems A4988 chips.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
For the next assembly step, find the compartment in the box with the red button caps; all the necessary hardware is there too. While assembling it, I noticed that the hardware isn't arranged randomly in the compartments; it's roughly grouped by assembly subassembly. This made the process a little easier—credit to the manufacturer.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Let's assemble the control unit. You'll need: 1. The large acrylic panel (there are only two panels this size; use the larger one). 2. The front panel for the control board. 3. The control board 4. Hardware (4 standoffs, 4 long screws, 4 short screws, 4 plastic spacers). 5. Button caps. 6. A wrench of the appropriate size.
The parts listed in items 4 and 5 are in the same compartment of the hardware box, which is why I didn't specify the exact screw lengths.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Fasten the board to the base using the short screws, plastic spacers, and standoffs as nuts.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Using the long screws, we attach the front panel. Surprisingly, the designers used not the same clear acrylic, but a rather nice-looking black one.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Everything was going smoothly, and then I ran into a small, neatly laid trap. Back when I was installing the modules on the board, after the “photo shoot,” I noticed that the Arduino socket had more contacts than the Arduino itself. So the board could be installed in either of two positions. I checked the photos I’d taken earlier, then looked at the labels next to the contacts and installed the board accordingly. The board should sit closer to the driver boards, not to the edge of the main board.
But once I’d assembled the whole thing, I realized the USB connector was in the way: the top cover hit it, and it was short by just a couple of millimeters. During assembly, I nearly broke the connector off by accident. So it turns out the front panel was made for the Arduino board to sit closer to the edge, but it needs to be installed farther from the edge.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
After grumbling a bit about this small but unexpected flaw in an otherwise well-thought-out design, I simply loosened the screws, shifted the front panel as far from the edge as I could, and tightened the screws again. You can see in the photo that the panel has shifted quite a bit; the buttons make it obvious. This also lifted the Arduino board slightly in its socket. The simplest fix would be to enlarge the cutout for the USB connector, but I haven’t done that yet since everything works perfectly as it is.
For this step, we’ll need the front section with the control board from the previous step, as well as the frame I assembled at the very beginning. We’ll also need 4 M6x10 screws (if I remember correctly) and a couple of long cables. The screws are easy: they’re the largest ones in the kit, and they’re all the same length.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
First, install the front panel as shown in the photo. The lower parts of the large acrylic panel form the “feet” of the engraver. This step also makes the frame more rigid, although it was already quite rigid before.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Connecting the wires couldn’t be simpler—hard to imagine how it could be any easier. At this stage, connect the wires from the Y-axis motors. It’s all straightforward: two motors, two cables of the same length, and two connectors with identical labels :) The X-axis motor plugs into the remaining connector. The laser emitter plugs into the two-pin connector labeled Laser. That’s it; the other connectors aren’t used. By the way, about those other connectors: the fan connector is self-explanatory, but I never did figure out what the voltmeter connector is for.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Now tuck the wires into the grooves and cover them with the decorative caps. The wires are cut to a fairly precise length, so I wouldn’t leave much slack near the board.
First, take the frame, the movement assemblies from Step 2, and a pair of M5 nuts.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
You might ask, why do we need nuts without screws at this stage? So we don't forget about them later :) Slide the nuts into the slots in the profile and push them toward the front panel, then install the movement mechanisms.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Fit the pulleys onto the motor shafts and roughly align them in the same plane as the bearings.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Next, take: 1. The remaining toothed belt 2. Four acrylic belt-tensioner parts. 3. Four M5x10 screws 4. Two M5 nuts 5. Two M3x13 screws 6. Two M3 nuts
Cut the toothed belt into two equal lengths, feed them into the slots in the aluminum profiles, loop them over the motor pulleys, and secure them at the front panel.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Then tension the belts at the rear panel. It's easier to do this before installing the rear panel. Tension the belts so the tensioner doesn't stick out past the end of the aluminum profile.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Now take the rear panel and the four largest-diameter screws, and install it with the “feet” facing down, just like the front panel.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
This is what the assembly looks like. You could say it's almost finished.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
The instructions for this step were a bit sparse, but you don't really need them anyway. The main thing is to position the mechanism with the motor facing the control board. Basically, just follow the photo :)
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
For this step, we need: 1. The frame with the Y-axis movement assemblies installed, assembled in the previous step. 2. The movement mechanism with the motor and laser emitter, from Steps 3 and 4. 3. The aluminum XX-shaped profile. There's only one left, so it's hard to mix it up. 4. Four screws of the largest diameter.
Kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
As the final step, connect the motor to the control board and bundle the motor and laser wires together inside a plastic sleeve.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Photos of the assembled machine. Front
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Back
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Control panel
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
After assembling everything, I had some fasteners left over. One thing I can say in the developers' favor is that they included spares for almost everything: for example, I needed 10 screws and washers and got 11; I needed 4 long screws and got 5; I needed 16 spacers and got 18. Many thanks for that. I did have a lot of nuts left over, though. I suspect they're meant to be used as locknuts.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
What else came in the box. Power supply and power cord.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
The power supply is quite large, considering this isn't a 3D printer and its power consumption isn't very high. One downside is that the socket on the case isn't the familiar three-pin type, but a less convenient two-pin one. I didn't have a matching cable at home, so I had to use an adapter.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
The power supply outputs 12 V at up to 5 A. The manufacturer is listed as Delta, which is a good sign, but I didn't open it up because I didn't see the point—a basic, inexpensive power supply will work just fine with this engraver. This power supply stays cool even during extended use.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Safety glasses are included, though they're described as a gift. They have a picture of some strange little animal whose eyes already look suspiciously different. Looks like the critter has already tried using the engraver without glasses.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
These are probably the most basic safety glasses you can get. They do have side protection, but they're not fully enclosed, so you still need to be careful even when wearing them.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
The temples are adjustable, though, and the last two positions worked for me. In the second photo, one temple is set to its shortest position and the other to its longest.
DIY laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
The kit also includes a USB-to-MicroUSB cable, and it's pretty good quality. And there's a small bonus pack. Although I think the packer may have mixed up the labels a bit, since the glasses should definitely be included, while the little bag is just a bonus.
DIY laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
The little bag contained: 1. Five small pieces of cardboard, about the size of a business card. 2. Two small pieces of wood 3. Two flashlights!
At the very beginning, I wrote that I expected the kit to include instructions, either on paper or on a flash drive. So when I saw one of the flashlights in the kit (it was turned around), I thought it was a USB drive with the software and instructions (which would have been perfectly reasonable at this price). But it turned out to be just a little USB flashlight, and then I found the second one too.
DIY laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
The flashlights—or rather, little lights—are double-sided, so you can plug them into a USB port either way around. They shine brightly, but I can't see the point of including them in this kit. No, of course I'm glad to have them, but I would have been much happier if they'd included the cheapest 1–2 GB flash drive with the software and instructions instead.
DIY laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Next came a little “surprise”: I hadn't noticed that the kit doesn't include a base plate. I spent a long time thinking about what to make one from, and the only thing I could come up with was cutting a piece from a ceramic tile. The base plate needs to be nonflammable, flat, non-reflective (or, rather, minimally reflective), and solid. A ceramic tile isn't the best option, of course, but I didn't have anything else. The base plate measures 210 × 325 mm. The full size is 210 × 330 mm, but the front panel mounting screws stick out by 5 mm. Because of the way the laser focuses, I could even have made the base plate out of plywood. But if you're cutting thin materials, the surface underneath could be damaged, so I went with a tile.
DIY laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
I measured the engraver's working area. The listing says it's A5 size, i.e. 148 × 210 mm; in reality, I measured 150 × 205 mm, which is close to the stated size. To measure it, I manually moved the laser to the furthest points it could reach, then turned up the power and burned a dot at each point. After that, I measured the distance between the dots.
DIY laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
I'll jump ahead a little. To work properly, the beam needs to be focused first. Put on the glasses, power up the device, then press the Week button. You may need to enable the “aiming” function in the software, but that doesn't change the basic idea. Place the object you want to engrave on the table. There's an adjustment ring underneath the laser. Turn it until the beam is as thin as possible. That's it. One thing to note: focus depends heavily on the distance to the object. On the one hand, that's a downside—you have to adjust it for objects of different heights. On the other hand, it's a plus: there's less chance of the beam burning through the base if it goes beyond the edge of the object.
DIY laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
To keep the engraver from sliding around on the table, I glued on rubber feet.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
During use, I noticed two issues with the same assembly. First, when the Y-axis drive is closest to the control board, the wire is stretched very tight. One solution is to secure the wire to the acrylic panel.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
When the Y-axis drive moves more than 50% of the way away from the control panel, it can start scraping against the motor wire, especially at the end of its travel. One solution is to smooth the edge of the acrylic panel a little.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Software. The complete opposite of the hardware. I had no real complaints about the hardware: everything is solid and fairly reliable. The software, on the other hand, is pretty rough around the edges. To start with, the product page has an archive containing the software, drivers, and installation instructions. But when I downloaded it, Avast flagged it as containing a virus. Okay, I thought, and went looking for the software somewhere else. Same thing happened there. In the end, I disabled the antivirus and installed the software. What else could I do?
First, connect only the USB cable. The computer will prompt you to find a driver; point it to the driver folder (it will be in the additional materials). After installation, open Device Manager and find which COM port the new driver was assigned to. It should look something like this.
After that, you can install and launch Benbox (the software the antivirus flagged). At this point, you can connect the 12 V power supply, or leave it disconnected. But BE CAREFUL: if you connect the power, put on your safety glasses first, because the laser may turn on at full power when the software starts!!! Also make sure there is a nonflammable surface under the engraver. I already got a laser flash in my eye once.
Once installed and launched, select Russian in the settings.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
But you still can't use the engraver yet; first, you need to load the firmware onto it. Enter firmware update mode.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Select the COM port number we saw in Device Manager, and then select our device.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Click the yellow button and find the firmware file in the Benbox/ROM folder.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Confirm and wait. I don't remember how long it takes or whether there was a notification afterward, and I can't repeat the process. Something like 30–40 seconds.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
After that, click the arrow button. A menu for selecting the printer port will appear. Then click the buttons next to the down arrow to open the advanced settings menu, and enter everything as shown in the screenshot.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
Here are some of the things you can do in the program window. Left column: Various drawing and writing tools: you can draw circles, straight and curved lines, add text, and choose a font. The topmost button changes the position of the coordinate grid.
Top buttons: Open file Move left/right/forward/back (duplicates the corresponding keyboard buttons) Turn off the laser Minimum power (doesn't work) Maximum power Aiming (Warning: when you press this button, the laser flashes briefly at full power, and only then switches to minimum power) Draw an outline around the image. Start/pause — note that sometimes the engraver may stop with the laser on when paused. It's better to press this during a “dry run.” Stop. Load G-code Update firmware Settings.
Right column: COM port number Intensity and power — don't work Movement speed Time — as far as I can tell, this is how long the laser stays on while engraving. The higher the number, the more power it uses. Step — I haven't quite figured this one out. I assume it's the number of steps per command, but I didn't notice any difference. Engraving mode selection- 1 — “prints” from left to right, then returns, moves down one line, and “prints” again. 2 — “prints” from left to right, then right to left, alternating. It runs more quietly and works better in this mode, but the edges get heated more. 3 — a mode that “prints” only the outlines of the image elements.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
The same description, but “from the manufacturer.”
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
An animated GIF showing how to upload the firmware. Click the image to view it.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
They also included another program, which I haven't figured out yet, although I understand what it's for. The program lets you open an image, adjust it, and generate G-code to control the engraver.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
Some “manufacturer-provided” pictures as instructions.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
I'm still figuring out this program, but Benbox is enough for now
And, of course, some examples of it in action. But first, a brief explanation. The engraver can be said to operate in two modes Vector graphics: the laser stays on while it «draws» and switches off only when moving to the next section. It works very quickly, but the image consists of thin lines. Raster graphics: the laser «draws» the image line by line, moving just like a printer normally does. The laser switches on while each dot is being printed. In this mode, the image is richer, but printing takes a very long time.
First, an example of vector mode. In this mode, only the outlines of filled areas are «drawn». The source image is in the software description section. Image size: 35x50 mm; material: laminated particleboard.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
The same image, but at its original size of 25x35 mm.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
A video of the printing process, filmed almost from the very start of the engraving. Sorry, the quality is a bit rough.
And this is raster graphics. Size: 30x40 mm; printing time: about 30 minutes. The speed is set to 1600. I tried setting it to 3200, but at that speed it sometimes starts missing steps, which can cause problems during printing.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
The resulting image, on laminated particleboard.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
A video of the engraving process. Since the whole thing takes a long time, this is just a short clip.
Engraving on laminated particleboard; total text width: 23 mm Raster mode.
Another test on laminated particleboard, but with a different purpose. At the top is vector mode, with 7 passes to demonstrate that the beam always starts from the same spot after each run. So if the engraving isn't deep enough, just press Start again and the laser will follow the same path. At the bottom is the same text in raster mode. Text width: 41 mm.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
The first photos might make it look like the laser engraves very faintly, but that's misleading. While engraving the previous text, the laser happened to go beyond the edge of the particleboard, and you can see on the cut edge how deeply it burns into the material.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5-watt laser
Plastic is more difficult, though. Vector mode works pretty well, but in raster mode the plastic starts to melt, so I need to try using lower power. Also, you need to select a mode where the laser operates only while moving in one direction, with the return stroke idle. That should reduce overheating.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
And here you can clearly see a shortcoming in the software (most likely the computer software). As I mentioned above, the beam always starts engraving from the same spot, so positioning is excellent. But when engraving, it doesn't manage to close the curve, leaving a one-step offset.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
I wasn't sure what else to practice on, so I tried engraving on fiberglass PCB material. Vector graphics work without any problems, but for raster graphics I needed to set the power higher. Both texts were “drawn” at the same power. I'll say right away: it won't cut copper, or even “scratch” it. The power isn't high enough; it would need to be about 10 times higher.
But during the test, I had the idea of marking PCBs—more specifically, marking component reference designators on PCBs. Keep in mind, though, that the engraved area gets slightly charred, and the carbon can conduct electricity, so the engraved area must not touch component pads.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
This is a test engraving on paper. Honestly, I didn't think it would work, since the laser easily cuts right through paper, but lowering the power gave a pretty good result. By the way, you can use the engraver to make stencils, for screen printing, for example.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
The program's sample files included a little ruler like this, so I tried checking the engraving accuracy. The accuracy is pretty good: over 30 mm, the actual size was only 0.5 mm smaller than specified. The material is pine paneling.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
This improvised ruler also had the numbers 0 to 3. I tried changing the laser power, but couldn't get them to “print,” even though I was able to engrave small details.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
Another example of engraving on fiberglass PCB material: 10 passes in a row, and the same problem—the circle doesn't close, with a clear offset. By the way, the engraving depth on fiberglass PCB material is quite noticeable.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
If you crank up the power, one pass can engrave about 2 mm into pine. I once saw rolling pins with a pattern in a store, which was supposed to transfer onto dough. The grooves were about this deep.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
Just an example of small text; the material is pine paneling.
Laser engraver kit with a 2.5 W laser
And here you can see how it works in other modes, selected at the bottom right in the Benbox software At the top is Continuous mode. In this mode, not every line is engraved, but roughly every third or fourth one. At the bottom is Discrete, the standard mode, which engraves every line. All the other settings were the same.
DIY kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
Right at the end, out of curiosity, I measured the power consumption. 1. Motors holding position + minimum laser power (aiming mode). 2. Time=20 mode 3. Time=100 4. Time=200 Most engraving is done at settings of 10–30. At higher power, soft wood gets engraved very deeply. While it was running, I checked the laser module's temperature. After half an hour in Time=30 mode, it was cool, so I'm not even sure why it needs active cooling.
DIY kit for assembling a laser engraver with a 2.5-watt laser
That seems to cover everything. Here's a quick summary. Pros Well-thought-out package Sturdy engraver frame that can support a more powerful laser. Large working area Choice of laser power, or a version with no laser at all. No extra tools needed for assembly.
Cons The software isn't very user-friendly No backing board included. Issues with the Y-axis motor wiring design
My take: I have virtually no complaints about the mechanics. The only real issue is the cable routing for the Y-axis motors; it needs some work. It's also a shame there's no base, but on the other hand, finding a piece of ceramic tile was no trouble for me, and cutting it took just a couple of minutes. Actually, the removable base is a big plus. If you want, you can engrave designs much larger than the specified A5 size. In that case, instead of placing the object on the table, you place the engraver on the object. You can use markers to continue the design in sections, and even engrave a front door. The mechanics are quite robust, and this chassis could easily support a heavier (and more powerful) laser than the one included. The frame is sturdy, with no complaints at all.
The software supplied with this engraver is a whole other story. It does work, of course, but it's very awkward to use. For example, the program's workspace can display an image only 55x85 mm in size. You can load a larger image, but it will extend beyond the screen. That's not the only problem, though: scrolling is extremely awkward. You have to move the grid to see another part of the image. Worse still, the program only runs in windowed mode, and you can't even resize its window :( Also, not all the program's features work. For example, you can't adjust the laser power directly; it's controlled indirectly through the “Time” setting.
For now, I'm thinking of finding a more powerful laser so I can cut at least thin acrylic, say 4–5 mm thick. I'd also like to build an enclosure so I don't have to wear goggles all the time, only when watching the engraving up close. Of course, the enclosure will need a fan, but there's even a dedicated connector for one on the control board. I also have an idea for an attachment to engrave cylindrical objects.
I hope you found this review interesting. I'm looking forward to suggestions for testing it on different materials. I'd also be glad to hear recommendations for alternative software.
At the link, you can download the archive, which contains: USB-RS232 converter drivers in the root directory Benbox folder — the included software, with the program itself and the corresponding engraver firmware GRBL folder — software for preparing G-code from images, plus firmware for use with this program; not tested. benbox-3.6.96+Simple-Instructions folder — downloaded from the internet; an earlier version of the Benbox program
Warning: the antivirus flags the Benbox installer. I had to disable my antivirus. Proceed at your own risk.
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